Friday, April 30, 2021

Titusville to Charleston

It's been 11 days since I updated the blog and I wasn't sure I was going to keep it up for this trip.  Sometimes, it seems like a lot of work but I do it mostly for myself.  I really like going back through the blog and reminding myself of what we've done.  Especially now that I'm getting older and my memory needs a little assistance.  Anyway, we anchored early today (April 30th) and I had some extra time so decided to sit at the computer and write a bit.  Thanks for tagging along!

Tuesday, April 20th - Day 6

It was a quiet day on Second Wind.  We were not moving today because of rain and storms in the area.  Our friends Dean and Sue on Autumn Borne were anchored near us and they decided to leave in the early morning to try and see friends in Daytona later in the day.  They made it only a couple miles before lightning struck the water near them so they took this as a sign and turned around to anchored in almost the same spot they just left.

I played my flute a bit in the afternoon and we worked a few minor boat projects.  We were very pleased with the lack of leaks in the boat after all the work last Winter.  We had replaced 14 of our ports and completely re-bedded the new ones.  Plus we sanded and painted all the decks and cabin top.  No more leaks!  Yea!

After the storms passed by late afternoon, it was a colorful sunset.

Wednesday, April 21st - Day 7

The next few days were going to be fairly short at only 45 miles each so I hadn't set the alarm for this morning.  I had texted Dean the night before about when they were leaving and, once again, we got our plans mixed up.  I thought he was leaving later and he thought I was leaving earlier.

We released the mooring at 8:20am.  Autumn Borne had already left and they were far enough away that I couldn't see them.  After getting the boat running back in the ICW, I texted Dean and they were only a few miles ahead.  They ran slow and we eventually caught up.

Winds were quiet today and we didn't even put any sails out until the last couple hours into Daytona.  It was a typical day on the ICW with many powerboats passing us in both directions.  Most of them were kind to us and slowed down to less wake.

We anchored in our favorite Daytona spot just before the new Memorial Bridge.  Dean had never been in here before because the entrance was a little tricky.  He followed me in and we both anchored near each other at 3:45pm.  

Our plan was to drop the dinghy, lower the outboard off the deck and motor into Caribbean Jacks for their Mahi BLT dinner.  We invited Dean and Sue along and they accepted.  After tying up at Caribbean Jacks, we dropped some trash in the supplied bin and took about a mile walk to loosen up legs that hadn't been off the boat in 7 days since Marathon.  My legs were a little wobbly until they got used to walking more than 40 feet.

It was a fun evening with friends but we were surprised at the lack of face masks or social distancing.  I guess over the past week Florida's Governor decided he had enough with COVID and said it was over.  We wore masks in and out of the restaurant with several folks looking at us funny.

Dinner was very good and both couples split a Mahi BLT sandwich.  We also split their huge Banana Foster for dessert.  See last year's blog for a picture of the dessert.  Here we are after dinner feeling happy and full.

Back to the boat and a quiet evening to relax.

42nm today, 326.5 total miles for the trip

Thursday, April 22nd - Day 8

Yesterday we had made reservations for a mooring in St. Augustine for tonight and the next 3 nights to sit out storms and high winds.  I wanted to get there a little early so we were up and out of the anchorage by 7:30am.  

Winds were on the nose all day so no help from the sails.  This sections is always crazy with boaters and today did not disappoint us.  Boats were zooming both directions all day.  

The wind was blowing 15-20 as we picked up our mooring.  When I called the marina and said we were close, they assigned me a mooring way at the south end.  I mentioned we probably wouldn't be able to get their WiFi down there so they called me back a little later with an assignment closer to the marina.  Yea!

We had made plans for dinner in town with our friend Paul.  We met him and his wife Ursula at Burdines Marina in Marathon the previous Winter.  They own a sister-ship to Second Wind - another Endeavour 43 - which is on-the-hard in St. Augustine for major repairs.  But, the wind was cold and blowing hard so instead we invited Paul onto the boat for one of Laura's home-cooked meals.  

I took the dinghy into the marina to pay for 3 nights on the mooring and pick up Paul.  Back at the boat we had a nice reunion with munchies and white wine.  Ursula is back visiting family in NC.  I later grilled a pork loin and I was a little surprised the wind didn't blow out the grill.  We had a very nice evening then I took Paul back to the marina.

45nm today, 371.5 total miles for the trip

Friday, April 23rd - Day 9

Unfortunately, I didn't take any pictures while we were in St. Augustine for 3 days.  Sorry about that....

We made plans to meet Paul (and his car) at the Winn Dixie around 11am.  Laura and I took the dink into the marina and walked the 2 miles to the grocery store.  It was a nice walk on a beautiful day.  A little windy and cool but great for walking.

After grocery shopping Paul drove us back to the marina and we lugged 14 bags of grocery's back to the boat with the dinghy.  This is always a chore and I'm happy we don't do it too often. 

We all went to dinner together after driving around St. Augustine looking for a restaurant that had availability.  The third time was a charm as we pulled into Culinary Outfitters, put our name on the list for a table, then went to the bar area for drinks and munchies.  This place was very nice but, once again, we were a little leery of being around so many people without masks.  I guess a year of wanting to be "safe" leaves a few scars.  Just a note that I've had my COVID shots but Laura has not.  Florida lowered it's age limit too soon before we left for her to sign up.

Sitting outside was again a little cool so I put on a sweatshirt and Laura put on her jacket.  We asked our waitress for an inside table but our dinners showed up first so we stayed.

Paul drove us back to the marina just after sunset and we spent the rest of the evening quietly on the boat.

Saturday, April 24th - Day 10

Looking at the weather forecasts, tomorrow morning didn't seem very nice to be leaving with storms predicted until noon.  I called the marina and extended our mooring for Sunday night.  

Winds were up during the day so we didn't even take the dinghy into town.  Just before dinner, they calmed down enough to run the grill.  We had purchased some nice t-bone steaks yesterday so we decided to grill one up fresh tonight.  In the foil are mixed veggies and butter that steam in the bag.  They were yummy.

While we were eating dinner, the setting Sun peaked through the trees over St. Augustine.

We moved everything down below out of the cockpit since major storms were coming through tonight.  Dean and Sue had moved on to Fernandina and the storms were already going through there.  Batten down the hatches!

Sunday, April 25th - Day 11

I was awake much of the night watching the storms on RADAR and feeling the boat getting pushed around by the high winds.  A little after 4am we had a major storm cell coming right at us.  We were at the blue dot.

Around 6am the last of the storms went through and we slept a peaceful few hours.  The weather forecast had been wrong and the rest of the day was beautiful. 

We decided to get a little head start on the long trip to Fernandina tomorrow so left the mooring at 2:45pm to sail up the Tolomato River about 10 miles to a nice anchorage we had stayed at before.  It was a lovely jib-sail up the river for a few hours.

The anchorage was very quiet and nice after all the powerboats went home for dinner.  The almost full moon really lit everything up.

8nm today, 379.5 total trip miles

Monday, April 26th - Day 12

The section of the ICW between St. Augustine and Fernandina was a real challenge in the past.  But now, because of dredging and better charts, it's usually not too bad.  But, we would be going through some of the worst parts at low tide so I wanted to give us time to wait if we had to.

Anchor up at 6:30am and underway on a clear, calm day.  A few hours later we motored through this long straightaway in Palm Valley.  Very pretty area.  Look how calm the water was.

The tides helped us almost all day and we made excellent time.  In fact, we were just before Fernandina as the tide went low-low.  Since it was a full moon, the tides are lower and higher than normal as the moon lines up with the Sun to pull / push the water.  I checked the tides on our GPS and the tide now was approaching 1 foot BELOW LOW.  Yikes!  Check it out.  

A short while later it seemed like we were motoring down a valley.  Even the mussel beds were out of the water on the shore.

We made it through to Fernandina without "touching" and I was pretty happy.  I made reservations for Brunswick Landing Marina tomorrow night so we decided to keep going a bit and anchor closer so we would have more time at the marina.  We anchored near Black Hill River at 6pm - an 11 1/2 hour day on the water.

65nm today, 444.5 total trip miles

Tuesday, April 27th - Day 13

Woo Hoo!  Marina day!  Our first fuel, water and overnight marina since Marathon.

Anchor up at 7am as we prepared to motor around St. Andrew's Sound and Jekyll Island channel - two areas of the GA ICW that can be problematic.  The ICW actually goes out into the ocean in St. Andrew's Sound to get around the very shallow parts.  When the wind and tide are not nice, this can be a dangerous area.

Today the winds were only about 10 knots from the SE so the trip wasn't bad.  There was a light, 2 foot swell we motored into on our way out and had on our stern coming back in.  No problemo!

A short time later we motored around Jekyll Island which has a very narrow channel for sailboats.  Today we were near high tide so no problems with this either.  Exiting Jekyll channel, we turned up the Brunswick River to Brunswick Landing Marina.

We've stayed here many time in the past - once for almost 2 months over Thanksgiving and Christmas.  This time we needed fuel (down to about 1/2 tank) but our water tank was below 1/4.  We also had almost 2 weeks of dirty clothes and this marina has free washers and dryers.  

At the fuel dock we took 81 gallons of diesel and 10 gallons of gasoline (for our dinghy and Honda generator).  81 gallons from Marathon is better than normal.  Maybe because I'm able to turn off our huge alternator now and let the solar panels and wind generator charge the batteries for free.  You know I'll be keeping track to see if this is true.

After fueling, we were assign a slip at the next dock so we motored over there and tied up in a few minutes.  I get a kick out of the marina workers who see all kinds of boat drivers and are not sure what to expect.  I've docked this boat probably 1,000 times in 14 years and have driven many other types of boats on deliveries and charters.  I pulled into this slip probably faster than the dockhand expected because the wind was behind me and I needed to keep my speed up for steerage.  If you slow down too much, the wind pushes you around and you have no water going by the rudder to steer.  Anyway, Laura handed off the spring-line as the dockhand yelled, "Slow down Captain!".  I already had the boat in reverse and increased to almost full throttle to stop the boat nicely along the dock.  As I said, the marina worker was pretty surprised at the result.

We tied the boat up and hooked up to power.  Laura got the laundry together and hauled it up to the marina with our luggage wheelie.  I went to work washing down the boat and filled our water tank with about 180 gallons.  The boat was now sitting much lower in the water than 1/2 hour ago with almost 2,000 pounds of fuel and water added.

Laura made quick work of the laundry since all the washers were empty at 2pm.  She timed it almost exactly to my sitting down in the cockpit to get back to the boat.  Yea!  We had clean clothes again.

I gave Laura the choice of where to go for dinner.  We were only spending one night in the marina (at $120 a night) so wanted to make the most use of our day.  She decided on Mexican so we washed, dressed and walked to the El Puerto Aztecka restaurant about 3/4 mile from the marina.  When we got there, they were closed on Tuesdays.  Dang!

She next decided on Indigo Coastal Shanty which had great reviews on-line.  It was only a few block away.  When we got there, the parking lot was full and people were waiting outside.  I went in and put my name on a list for a table.  The gal told me maybe about 1/2 hour.

When I went back outside, we could see this bar across the parking lot called Tipsy McSway's.  How could we turn down a name like that?  We walked over intending to have a cocktail while we waited for our table at Indigo.  But, it was pretty nice so we stayed.  A short time later I got the call from Indigo and told them we decided to go somewhere else.  We will try them next time.

Tipsy's had a great atmosphere.  The menu explained that Tipsy was born on a ship crossing the International Date Line.  His mother went into labor on Wednesday and he was born on Tuesday.  Tipsy....

I ordered the Zombie (4 shots of different Rum plus a floater - limit 2 per customer) and Laura had a Mai Tai.  They came in these cool glasses.  We had to get a picture.

Their drink of the day was called, "Trinidady Issues".  Too funny...

We were probably a little wobbly as we walked back to the boat.  I'm glad we had taken care of all our chores before dinner.

But wait!  There's more chores...  I topped off our water tank and put away our hose.  Then just about ready for bed.

20nm today, 464.5 total miles for trip

Wednesday, April 28th - Day 14

We left the marina at 7:15am and motored back down the Brunswick River to the ICW.  Maybe you have read about the 656 foot long car carrier "Golden Ray" that flounder in the St. Simons Sound September 2019.  I've posted a few picture on our trips by the wreck but now they are cutting it into slices like a big Wahoo.  Here is a good article on it.

Leaving the marina we motored passed the Brunswick waterfront where they had just brought one of the slices to the dock.  Check out this picture I took.  This "slice" is on it's side with the keel of the ship to the right.  The vertical lines are the decks inside the ship where 4,200 vehicles were stored.

This part of the ICW through lower Georgia is one of the most twisty-turny of the whole trip.  When I saw we had logged 20 miles from the marina, I checked my GPS and we were only 10 “crow” miles from where we started.  Geez!

I used our jib to help whenever possible and we were able to keep our average speed close to 6 knots.   The day was fairly uneventful as we were on a rising tide through the typical shallow spots around here.  We did get lucky that later in the afternoon, when the tide was low, we were traveling through sections where there was plenty of water.  Overall it was a long day as I tried to eat up the Georgia ICW miles.  

Another full-moon high tide today brought the channel markers down to the water.

We had planned to stop around St. Catherine's Sound for the night and go out the sound in the morning for an off-shore run up the coast.  But, the winds were not good for those anchorages.  I try to find an anchorage where the currents push the boat perpendicular to the wind.   That way the wind is not fighting the current with the boat and we don't go around in circles on the anchor.

I decided to go a bit farther and we anchored at Buck Head Creek at 6:30pm.  We had a quiet night at the nice anchorage.

67.5nm today, 532 total miles for the trip.

Thursday, April 29th - Day 15

Anchor up at 7am as we motored down Ossabaw Sound passed Hell Gate into the ocean.  I don't like going out the Georgia inlets against the tidal current because it takes us forever to get off-shore where we can turn to our course up the coast.  But today, the winds were helping so we rolled out our main and jib to help push us out.  We held 6 knots against the tide which was pretty good for us.

A few hours later we turned NE up the Georgia coast.  The seas were about the predicted height - 2 to 3 feet, short swell - but it was somewhat uncomfortable.  I finally realized that there were two swells.  One was coming from the ESE wind direction and the other out of the east.  This was making the boat roll around pretty good and the apparent winds were only 5-7 knots so not helping stabilize the boat.  We had to keep the motor running or our speed dropped below 3 knots.  I eventually sheeted the main in tight which really cut down on the roll and made things much more comfortable for us riding along. 

The nice thing about sailing off-shore on this part of Georgia is the inlets are pretty close so there is a wide selection to choose from depending on how long you want to spend out there.  If it was nice, we would have motor-sailed overnight to Winyah Bay or Cape Fear River.  But we like to sleep at night and this boat motion would not have been good for sleeping.

Instead, we decided to come in at the South Edisto River and anchor a few miles up by the ICW.  One reason I picked here was the tide was just starting to flood so it would help us in.  It worked out well and we anchored at 7pm then Laura made us a nice pasta dinner.

We were rewarded with this nice sunset and calm anchorage.

74.5nm today, 606.5 total trip miles

Friday, April 30th - Day 16

Today was another day of choices.  The forecast for off-shore looked pretty nice but it would take us a long time to go back down the South Edisto against the current.  Instead we pulled the anchor up at 7:30am and motored up the ICW toward Charleston.

It was only about 30 miles to Charleston so we had a few options.  We typically do not stop in Charleston as the marina is expensive and the anchorages not nice.  Usually, we anchor before Elliott Cut on the Stono River.  That sets us up for running all the way to Winyah Bay and maybe Georgetown the next day.

Today, we got to Elliott cut around 1pm.  We could keep going through the harbor and onto the other side up the ICW.  The anchorages within range there have lots of current and not much swing room. 

We could also continue out Charleston Harbor and sail up to Winyah Bay off-shore.  The winds and seas looked good for this but we would be entering Winyah Bar around 11pm and anchoring around midnight.  We were not in that much of a hurry.

Instead we anchored on the Stono River just south of Elliott Cut at 1:30pm.  Tomorrow the currents in Elliott Cut turn against us at 7am so we have to leave here early in order to make it through there.  That will set us up nicely for the rest of the day past Charleston to Georgetown with a rising tide through some of the shallow areas. 

Laura and I relaxed today and it took me over 3 hours to write this blog.  We will leave here around 6am tomorrow or as soon as it's light enough to see the channel markers.

34.5nm today, 641 total trip miles




Monday, April 19, 2021

Trip North 2021 - Marathon to Titusville

Thursday, April 15th - Day 1

Air temp 71, Water temp 74, Winds SE @ 10-14

Yesterday we finished up our "before we leave" list, Laura did a last fresh grocery run and we had a last happy-hour with our friends Sal and Ina.  Last night I had filled the water tank and put away the water hose.  We were ready!

I had the alarm set for 6am figuring we would be off the dock before sunrise.  But, as usual, I did not sleep well the night before leaving and decided to get up at 5:30am to start our departure.  It was a nice morning - warm and calm - and I took my time to remove and stow away all the extra dock lines and power cord.  Winds were out of the SE and only about 5 knots as we untied the last dock line.  I love it when the boat just sits there at the dock with a light wind holding her.  A little reverse and we were away.  A few minutes later we said a sad good-bye to our friends and marina we had been at for 4 months.  It was just light enough to see the channel markers as we motored out of Boot Key Harbor.

We rounded the turn outside the #1 and #2 channel markers and headed south around Boot Key.  There were about 15 boats anchored outside the harbor.  Will they be taking advantage of the SE to S winds today and head north?  3 miles later we turned the boat east into the sunrise and raised our jib and mainsail.  Laura took this colorful picture of our morning sunrise.

It was a nice day for our first travel on the water in several months.  We had taken the boat out a few times for sailing with family and friends but just relaxing and cruising is a different environment.  

Later in the morning as we turned more northerly around The Keys, the winds were favorable for sailing and we turned the engine off for several hours.

Because we had left early and were making good time, we had a few options about where to stay tonight.  We could anchor off Rodriquez Key and be protected from the SE to S winds.  But, we would be there around 3pm.  Traveling 20 miles farther would bring us to Anglefish Creek around 6pm.  Dang.  Just at low tide and, from experience, we need about 1/2 foot of tide to make it through the channel.  Now what?  I did slow the boat down thinking we would need to wait until 7pm for higher water at Anglefish Creek.

But, as we got closer, I realized maybe we could go a little farther and anchor on the ocean side of Elliott Key.  This is not a place I would normally pick because it is open to the ocean waves and swells.  As we sailed closer, the seas were pretty calm - maybe 1/2 foot of small chop.  We decided to anchor just past Caesar Creek and maybe use the shallow creek entrance as a breakwater for the swells.  Plus, this would save us an hour today and an hour tomorrow morning from not running to anchor on the Biscayne Bay side.  

We did anchor just north of Caesar Creek off Elliott Key and it was pretty nice.  The boat behaved and pointed into the wind and small chop.  It was a long day and neither of us slept well the night before .  We hit the sack at 9pm.

Pretty sunset over Elliott Key.

 

71.5nm in 12 hours and 20 minutes

4.5 hours of engine-off sailing

Friday, April 16th - Day 2

Air temp 75, Water temp 74 (78 in the Gulf Stream), Winds light

I slept excellent and woke up refreshed just before the alarm at 5am.  I was up doing engine checks and preparing to get underway while Laura struggled out of bed.  This is a real turn-around for us.  I'm usually the straggler.

We had our navigation lights on as we pulled anchor at 5:30am in the dark.  It was very calm and comfortable as we motor-sailed north toward Miami.

I decided to head out over the reef just north of Fowey Rocks Light to try and get into the Gulf Stream current as soon as possible.  It worked out really well and just a few miles off-shore our speed picked up from 6 to 8 knots.  Then 9 knots.... then 10.  Whoa!  Hold on!  I took this picture of our GPS shortly afterwards.  The boat speed (over ground) is in the upper left corner.  10 knots is crazy for our boat and we must have had about 4 knot of current helping us.

At one point we had a little help from the wind in our sails and actually hit 11 knots.  But by then I had gotten tired of taking pictures of the GPS.

We motored passed Miami just after sunrise.  As we were farther off-shore then usual, I was able to take this picture of the whole area.  Key Biscayne is on the left, downtown Miami in the middle and Miami Beach on the right.  

It was a lovely day on the ocean.  Not enough wind to sail at more than 3 or 4 knots so we kept the motor running all day.  Later in the morning the wind almost died completely and the water turned very glassy.  Notice the water difference from the last picture of Miami.

I kept the boat between 6 and 7 miles off-shore (as shown on the RADAR) and the Gulf Stream cooperated by staying that close to shore today.  Some days we've had to be out 10 miles off Ft. Lauderdale to stay in the stream.  

We really racked up the miles at 10 knots for many hours.  The boat was calm and winds helped a little in the afternoon when they came up to 7-8 knots out of the east.

Now we had another decision to make.  Our goal for today was Lake Worth inlet where we would anchor just inside the inlet and come back out tomorrow morning for a run to Ft. Pierce.  But, we were making such good time that I looked at other options.  We could not make Ft. Pierce before dark but if we ran all night we could easily be in Cape Canaveral tomorrow morning.  That would take a big chunk off our Florida travels.

Neither of us really wanted to do the overnight especially when the swell kicked up from the NE later in the day.  The boat started hobby-horsing pretty good and the ride was not comfortable at all.  It was like we were in the Gulf Stream with a north wind pushing against the current.  But, there was no north wind today.  Maybe there had been yesterday?

As a compromise, we decided to head for St. Lucie inlet if we could anchor off the ICW before dark.  As I turned toward shore later in the afternoon the Gulf Stream actually cooperated by keeping our speed up until we were just 6 miles away from the inlet.  We entered St. Lucie inlet at 6:30pm.  This was the first time I had been in this inlet and I would not have tried a new inlet in the dark.  We are members of TowBoat/U.S. and I called them when we were just a couple miles away to see if there were any issues I should be aware of.  They said we should have no problems with our draft but there was a dredge working the inlet.  I did call the dredge on our VHF radio and they told me to stay south of them as they were working the north side of the channel.

We entered the channel and motored toward the ICW.  Once again it was low tide and rather than cross into the shallow St. Lucie River I decided to turn north on the ICW and anchor by the Jensen Beach Bridge.  Winds were out of the south by then and forecast to clock south to west overnight.  We decided to anchor north of the bridge by the western shore.  The only problem was I knew there was a shallow bar just off the ICW that we had to cross - again at low tide.

When we were here a few years ago, I found the "hole" in the bar by slowly motoring the boat around the area.  I marked it on my GPS so had a good reference to use today.  It worked well and we were anchored just after sunset but before dark.  Wow!  What a long day.  I can't remember the last time we had motored more than 120 miles in a day without traveling overnight.  Pretty sunset tonight with the Sun peeking through the clouds right on the horizon.  We both hit the sack early again.


121nm in 14.5 hours (8.35 average!) - 192.5 total miles

Engine ran all day.

Saturday, April 17th - Day 3

Air temp 74, Water temp 75, Winds W-NW @ 10-12

We slept in a bit today with no alarm set.  Our long last 2 days had gotten us passed all the 35 bridges between Ft. Lauderdale and Stuart so there was no reason to hurry.  We were our own masters now.

Anchor up at 8am and back over the shallow bar into the ICW heading north.  We had the ICW mostly to ourselves for a couple hours but the local boat traffic really picked up just before noon.  Weekends on the ICW are usually very crowded if you are near cities and the weather is nice.  

The winds were sporadic in strength so not really good enough to sail with the engine off.  We went through our only bridge of the day that had to open for us - Ft. Pierce North Bridge - at 10:30am.  Now we were free again!

Wow!  The local boat traffic around Vero Beach was really crazy.  Boats were zooming by so close that we were getting spray in the cockpit.  The real winners were the 25-30 foot runabouts that think they are doing you a favor by slowing down to where they make the most wake possible.  They wave and smile on their way by as poor Second Wind rolls 20 degrees side-to-side on their 3 foot wake.

Here is one of my favorite houses on the ICW.  It is just north of Vero Beach.  I like it because of the dock, big windows and little Tiki-Bar on the second floor over to the left.  I can just see myself sitting there watching the world go by.

No rush anymore to make miles so we anchored at 5:45pm just south of the Eau Gallie bridge.  Boat is running well (knock on wood here) with only a few minor problems on my list.  I'm very pleased with this since all the changes I've made over the past few weeks to our electrical system.

58nm today (average 5.9 - our normal speed), 250.5 miles total

Engine ran all day.

Sunday, April 18th - Day 4

Air temp 74, Water temp 76, Winds W @ 10-12

We relaxed a bit in the morning as our goal for today was Titusville - only 35 miles away.  There is a lot of rain and thunderstorms coming through the new few days so we've decided to stay on a mooring in Titusville and sit them out.  I like moorings in storms because I have a little less worry about our anchor holding and a lot less worry about the boats around us dragging into us.

Anchor up at 9am as we motored toward the Eau Gallie bridge and turned north on the Indian River.  Winds were nice for sailing so we turned off the engine a few minutes later and it stayed cool all day.  We sailed for the next 3 1/2 hours on calm waters - it was very beautiful and relaxing.

Our friends Dean and Sue on Autumn Borne had left Vero Beach a few hours before we went by so were a little ahead of us.  Dean and I kept touch by text message.  A couple hours before Titusville, Dean texted me that they were anchored in Titusville and getting squalls to 30 knots.  Whoa!  We could see the storms on the horizon ahead of us and were tracking them on our cell phones.  Our winds were 10-12 knots on the beam and it was beautiful here.  But, I thought, "Better safe than sorry" so I rolled in about 2/3rds of the mainsail just in case.  

We had just passed the NASA Causeway Bridge when I could see the waves picking up on the water in front of us.  I quickly started rolling in the jib and got about 4-5 rolls on it before we were hit by a 30 knot gust from the NW that quickly clocked to the NE.  Our boat was going a little crazy and leaning over about 30 degrees as we tried to pull in the rest of our sails.  I eventually had to turn downwind so we could roll in the last 1/2 of the jib and it took both Laura and I pulling on the jib roller line to get the sail in.  Now we turned back upwind (with the engine at high RPMs) to pull in the last 1/3rd of the main.  It came in fairly easy and we sat back trying to get our breaths.  I guess the next time someone tells me there are squalls within 10 miles, I'm gonna pull in all my sails and just motor.  But it's a darn good thing I had pulled much of the sails in.  If we had our big sails out when that squall hit we could have gotten knocked over or pushed into the shallow water.  Thank you Dean!

The winds died slowly and were only about 15 knots by time we picked up a mooring in Titusville.  I went up on deck to see about a few repairs while Laura called the marina and paid for two nights on the mooring ($38.52 for 2 nights).  

We had broken the topping lift line on our staysail and jammed part of our mainsheet track.  That was weird because we didn't even have the staysail up.  Anyway, I was able to fix the topping lift fairly quickly by cutting away some of the frayed line and reconnecting to the snap-shackle.  The mainsheet traveler was a little harder.

Twice during the storm the mainsail had jibbed really hard to the opposite side.  One of the stoppers had become jammed and wouldn't move.  It took me about 1/2 hour of prying to get it loose but it still doesn't work as well as the other side.  I'm going to have to replace this in the future but it works OK now.

Laura made homemade pizza for dinner and we celebrated our arrival here with a bottle of Gnarley Head Old Vine Zin.  Sorry I didn't get a "before" picture but here was the remainder of the Shrimp and Broccoli Alfredo Pizza.  It was yummy!


I practiced my flute (first time in 5 days and it showed) and we relaxed on the boat.  Tomorrow a few more boat jobs and maybe shore-leave?

34nm today, 284.5 miles total

3 1/2 hours of engine-off sailing

Monday, April 19th - Day 5

Lots of thunderstorms during the night woke us several times.  This was the first major storm since we replaced 14 of our portlights, re-bedded all of our lifeline stanchions and repainted the decks over this past winter.  The results were pretty impressive.  All of the leaks we had been experiencing for the past many years were gone.  We only had a slow drip through 2 of the new portlights but a little tightening of the latches and they both stopped. 

I worked on commissioning our Electra-Scan waste treatment system and it is working great now.  

One problem bugging me from my battery work is our engine alternator is only charging our batteries at about 50 amps.  It is a 150 amp alternator!   I think the problem is I turned down the voltage regulator settings to save the belts a bit but it shouldn't have made that much difference.  Back to work....

I pulled our the manual for the Balmar MaxCharge MC-614 voltage regulator and read through the settings.  It showed that the display on the regulator cycled through several readings and I watched the regulator and wrote them all down.  I then went back to the table to check them out.  Hmmm.  It seems the voltage regulator thinks the batteries are currently at 13.9 volts.  It is set to charge them to 14.0 volts so it has cut down the charging current.  I checked the batteries are they are at 13.3 volts.  The voltage regulator is wrong.  OK.  If the regulator is working correctly (I didn't have a spare) then there is a bad, high-resistance connection somewhere that is affecting the voltage it is seeing.

I ran a new wire from the "battery voltage sense" on the regulator to the positive battery hookup.  I ran the engine and the regulator still saw 13.9 volts on the batteries.  Hmmm. Well, there are two sides to an electrical circuit.  Let's check the ground wires.  I had removed the ground wires from the alternator as part of my Lithium battery project to connect the Alternator Protect Device.  I went back to there and pulled it all apart.  The main 2-0 battery cable looked corroded (I couldn't see this before because I hadn't taken it off) and probably needed a new connector that would more closely match the bolt size on the alternator.  It turns out I had a new connector of the correct size left over from my battery project.  Laura helped me cut off the old terminal with a sawsall and hacksaw blade.  I crimped on a new terminal and put a large heatshrink over it all.  Excellent!

Hook everything back up and it seems to work much better!  Even running the engine at low RPM the alternator is now putting out 60 amps instead of 30 amps before.  Plus I can see from the voltage regulator display that it now sees the battery voltage at 13.3.  Yea!

Last project is write up 5 days of travel in the blog.  Done!

We will probably stay here Tuesday night and leave for Daytona on Wednesday.  The rain and storms are supposed to be south of us so our travel should be nice with sunny days and cooler nights with north winds.  I'll let you know how it goes....


Monday, April 12, 2021

Second Wind Goes Lithium

I've been researching Lithium-Iron-Phosphate (LiFePo4) batteries for almost a year.  I knew our current AGM batteries would need replacement in the next year or two (they only last us 4-5 years on average).  The cost to replace the our (4) 4D size AGMs is $1,700 - $2,000 depending on where I can find them.  I thought I could do it cheaper with the LiFePo4 batteries but they were a different animal and would require re-thinking and re-programing all of my battery chargers on the boat.  

On our way south last fall, I could tell the AGMs were not pulling their weight because the voltage was down near 12.0 after just pulling 100 amp-hours from the 800 amp-hour bank.  Usually they are not that low after 250 amp-hours.  I had installed these over 4 years ago so I knew they were coming due.  I started seriously researching the Lithiums and ordered them from China (the only place they are made) on December 10th - the day after we docked in Marathon for 3 months.  I ordered through Alibaba.com with a contract for shipping from the factory in 7-10 days then arrival 30-40 days later in Marathon.  The factory was a couple days late in shipping them out but it wasn't a big problem.  I figured I would still get the batteries around beginning of February.  Nope.  Because of world-wide shipping problems, I didn't receive the batteries until the second week in March.  I had already started a refund but it hadn't completed yet.  I was very happy to get the batteries and cancel the refund request.

Cells were boxed nicely -

Also in the second week of March I received a call from the Florida Vaccine Center.  I had registered on-line for a COVID shot and they had one for me.  I drove to Key West on March 13th and received my first Moderna shot.  They scheduled me for the second Moderna on April 10th so we had plenty of time to install and configure the batteries.

Step 1 - Top-balance the 12 LiFePo4 cells.  I had purchased a cheapo variable-voltage charger because the cells need to be charged to 3.6 volts.  This "balances" and synchronizes the cells to each other so they all discharge and charge at exactly the same rate.  You can't use a 12v charger for this part.  I wired all 12 cells in parallel and connected the charger.  The charger would only put out 10 amps.  These batteries would hold 3,360 amps (12 - 280ah cells in parallel).  This could take awhile....   8 days (and nights) later, the batteries were top-balanced to 3.6 volts. Here is what my workbench looked like for 8 days -

Step 2 - Install the new batteries.  I first had to remove the current 4D AGM house battery under the floor and the small spare parts containers next to it.  Our neighbor Mark helped me pull the 114 pound battery up the stairs, through our cockpit, down the deck and onto the dock.  After removing the spare alternator (which I had never used) and a few other items, I tore into the dividers to make a big open box.  But, while attacking the dividers, the whole box came apart.  It was very rotted.  I cleared out all the rot.  After measuring closely, there was just enough room to build a box out of 1X10 pine boards which the new batteries would fit in nicely.  Here was the hole under the floor after we remove all the rotted wood.  The new battery cells are next to the hole - 

Here is the box we made and installed.  We screwed and glued the box together with wood screws and epoxy.  We then epoxied the entire box, on both sides, to make it very waterproof - always a good thing on a boat.

I then installed the batteries.  The cells are 3.2 to 3.6 volts each.  You need to put 4 in series for a 12 volt battery.  I ordered 1/8" thick by 1" wide copper bar from onlinemetals.com and used this to "wire" the cells together with high-current capacity.  This configuration is basically (3) 280 amp-hour 12v batteries in parallel.  After installing all the wires and a battery management system (BMS) here was the finished product.

As you can see from the picture, we also screwed in wooden blocks on-top of the batteries to keep them from bouncing when we were in a heavy sea.  Don't forget our boat moves around pretty good sometimes.

LiFePo4 batteries charge quite differently from other batteries.  They keep a very constant voltage when charging until they reach the "upper knee".  Then the voltage increases rapidly. When I was top-balancing with the 10 amp charger.  The voltage was going up a couple thousands of a volt each hour until the last 1/2 day.  They also don't care if they are not fully charged all the time. This is great for boats since when we are anchored we want a constant voltage and our batteries are almost never fully charged.  So, we now want our charging systems to quit at 14.4 volts but not keep the voltage there for long like we would "absorb charge" on lead-acid batteries.  After the charger reaches 14.4 volts, it should "float" around 13.6 volts so the batteries would not be overcharged.

These batteries can also be damaged from over-charging, discharging too low (below 10%) and charging while their temperature is below freezing.  So, they require a battery management system (BMS).  I purchased a Daly 4S 250 amp BMS and installed it according to the instructions.  I did have to extend the wires but used my electronics background to do this properly with the right size wires and shrink-wrap connectors for the marine environment.

When I connected all the wires, the BMS would not turn on.  It has two main wires - one was connected to the negative side of the battery bank and the other goes to the boats 12v ground.  If it's working, I should read 12-14 volts from the boat ground to the positive terminal of the new battery bank.  I was reading nothing.  I checked my wiring and was 99.9% sure it was correct.  I then messaged the vendor in China (using Alibaba) where I purchased the BMS.  The next day they replied with instructions to connect a battery charger across the 2 big wires and it should start working.  I did that and it worked! 

The BMS also monitors each cell in the batteries to make sure they stay in sync.  It can also balance them slightly by applying a little more current to the cell at a lower voltage.  If they go out of balance too far, I would need to top-balance again.  As long as I don't abuse them, this should never happen.

Step 3 - Reprogram my solar controller.  There are 4 ways to charge batteries on Second Wind.  Solar, wind, battery charger through dockside power and our engine alternator.  I wanted to start with my solar controller and work my way through all the chargers after testing each one.  

We have 570 watts of solar panels controlled through a Morningstar MPPT 60 amp controller.  I thought this would be fairly easy as the controller has a front panel with switches for setting parameters.  After getting into the manual and researching a little on the Internet, I found that I needed to connect my computer to the MPPT in order to change these settings.  Ok.  I've worked in the computer field for 35 years so this shouldn't be so bad, right?  I was able to get the MPPT connected to my Wi-Fi router with a Cat5 cable.  The computer was also connected to the router so they should be seeing each other.  I downloaded the Morningstar MSView software onto my PC and it actually saw the MPPT controller.  Yea!  Unfortunately, no matter how many different ways I tried, I couldn't get in to change the program.  I emailed Morningstar Tech Support and received a reply about 1/2 hour later.  I answered a few questions and within another 1/2 hour a technician called me.  The secret to reprogramming was to right-click on the MPPT icon and select "Program".  Don't go into the program mode of the MSView software.  The technician I talked to was very knowledgeable.  If he had written the manual, I would have had no problem.

Another 1/2 hour on the phone and we had the controller programmed correctly but still needed to test.

Step 4 - Disconnect remaining AGM batteries from the boat 12v systems and connect the new LiFePo4 battery bank.  This was fairly easy as I had all the tools and connectors ready to make new 2-0 battery cables and a West Marine just down the street if I needed more cable.   

I had the old batteries disconnected in about an hour and ran 2-0 cables to the new Lithiums.  I disconnect the boat's battery charger, the MPPT solar controller and the wind generator.  Connecting that last cable was a high-pucker-factor moment but all the lights came back on in the boat instantly.  I was able to see what the batteries were doing on my phone through Bluetooth to the BMS.  They were working and happy!

We ran the boat off the LiFePo4 batteries for several hours.  The BMS did not seem to be showing that the batteries were fully charged.  It showed a state-of-charge (SOC) of only 7%.  That couldn't be right.  I had just charged these batteries for 8 days!

Another Alibaba message to the BMS vendor asking for help which they answered the next day.  They said to try and overcharge the new batteries.  The BMS should disconnect them and reset the SOC.  I pulled out my little 10 amp charger and also turned on the solar controller figuring I could test the solar cut-off at the same time.  

The solar controller stopped charging at 13.9 volts (right where I had set it) and a couple hours later the voltage got to 14.4 and the BMS disconnected the batteries.  I stopped charging and a few minutes later the BMS turned the batteries back on.  The state-of-charge on my iPhone BMS app showed 100%.  Another success!

Step 5 - Remove all AGMs from the boat and clean-up wiring.  I kept the solar panels charging the batteries and my Inverter / Charger off.  This inverter would not charge the Lithiums correctly so I couldn't use it on "auto".  The solar seemed to keep up with our little usage at the dock so I could disconnect the old batteries and disposed of them.

I recruited our neighbor Mark again and the two of us removed the (3), 114 pound AGM batteries from way down in our engine room.  We hauled each one up the stairs, through the cockpit, onto the walkway then down the dock.  I think the whole job took about 1/2 hour then he helped me bring them all to NAPA for free disposal. I cleaned up everything from around where the old batteries were stored and could see that the 12v system on the boat needed some work with organizing all the large battery cables from the inverter, alternator, solar panels, new batteries, etc.  But first, I had a new item to work on.

Step 6 - Replace Inverter / Charger and program for LiFePo4 batteries.  Replacing our Inverter wasn't in the original plans because it had been working great and I don't like fixing stuff that is not broken.  I thought I would just turn on the battery charger when we needed to boost the batteries and shut it off when they were close to full.  This should only be about once a week assuming the solar panel would keep working.  But....  At the end of February, Xantrex came out with a new marine Inverter / Charger that supported Lithium batteries.  Our old inverter was a Xantrex and it has worked great for 10 years.  Plus, in early March, we received our "Stimulus" deposits from the U.S. Government.  Mine would almost exactly cover the new inverter.  Let's stimulate!

I ordered the new charger and control panel (also with Bluetooth app).  It had been sitting in the box on our nav desk for a couple weeks now.  It was time to do the replacement.

One reason I had been hesitant about replacing the inverter is our old one is 70 pounds and is mounted in the engine room on the back of the refrigerator.  This sucker was heavy - especially when trying to unscrew from a wall.  But, the new one was only 18 pounds so that would be a lot better.

I disconnected all the wiring and Laura helped by unscrewing the last 2 screws while I tried to hold this thing up at arms-length.  I got it down and I hauled it to a towel on the floor of our salon.  After a couple hours figuring out the best place / orientation to mount the new one, we installed it in almost the same place but vertical instead of horizontal.  That would prevent me from dropping things in the top that had air-vents.  I actually emailed Xantrex support to see if this was OK and they said yes.  Here is our new Xantrex XC Pro 3000 -

Good news was the new Inverter control panel used the same wire as our old one so I wouldn't have to run new wire through the boat.  Bad news was it was much smaller so I had to figure out how to fill the hole from the old panel.

Our downstairs instrument panel is smoked plexiglass.  I decided to order a small piece (12" X 12") of smoked plexiglass on Amazon.  I had it two days later.  After much measuring, I cut out the bracket needed to mount the new controller into the old hold using a drill and jig saw.  It took me a while to mount the whole thing and get the screws drilled correctly but I think it came out pretty well.  What do you think?  The new control panel is on the left and you can just make out the plexiglass bracket around it.  Our old Link2000 is on the right and still working.  I love the Link because it tells you exactly how many amps you are using (or putting back in) and how many total amp-hours have been taken from the batteries since they were full.

Step 7 - Reprogram our Balmar voltage regulator.  We have a 150 amp Balmar alternator on our main engine with a Balmar MaxCharge MC-614 voltage regulator.  The MaxCharge is programmable but it's not easy.  This is like 1980s technology.  It only had 3 LED "8" displays and a little reed switch that you toggle with the end of a magnetic screwdriver.  

From my research on-line, I found the instructions for programming the regulator for the LiFePo4 voltages.  I also wanted to install an on-off switch for the engine alternator.  There are times we are motor-sailing that the solar and wind would keep up with our power usage and we don't need the alternator.  They tend to fight with each other so I usually turn off the solar and wind.  If I had an alternator on-off switch, I could maybe use a little less fuel.

I tracked down the power wire to the voltage regulator that would turn off the alternator.  After an hour or two of work, I wired one of our spare circuit breakers in series.  After cleaning up the wiring and labeling the circuit breaker, it looked pretty good.

Now I only had to turn on the engine key (didn't need to start the engine) to re-program the voltage regulator.  Once you put the regulator into program mode with the magnetic screwdriver, it cycles through all the settings.  When it displays the setting you want to change, you tap the screwdriver again and you can alter the settings.  I had 7 settings to change and they are looked weird on the 3 LEDs.  For example, the setting but Bulk Charge Voltage Limit was Bu (I guess for Bulk).  But, they scrolled by rather fast so I missed many of them.  Fortunately, it ran through all the settings (about 50) 3 times so I could hit them again.  Unfortunately, after the 3rd time it saved the settings and jumped out of program mode.  I ended up pulling a stool over to sit on while trying to read the tiny display and hit the right spot with the end of the magnetic screwdriver.  After about an hour, I finally had all 7 settings changed and verified.

I then turned on the Inverter and water heater.  This pulled over 100 amps from the batteries to drain them down a bit for my alternator testing.  After 1/2 hour or so, I turned off the inverter and started the engine.  I could monitor the batteries with my phone (BMS and Inverter Bluetooth) plus the Link2000 showed the alternator charging the batteries with 70 amps (at just 1,100 RPM).  About 45 minutes later I watched the charging current go to zero as the bulk voltage I had set was reached.  This worked too!

Step 8 - Install Alternator Protection Device.  One problem with the BMS protecting the batteries is when we are charging with the engine alternator.  If, for some reason, the batteries were overcharged (more than 14.4 volts) while using the alternator, the BMS would disconnect the batteries and the diodes in the alternator would be toast.  A similar situation happened to us 4 1/2 years ago just after we replaced the last set of batteries.  Sometime during the battery replacement, I guess I pulled too hard on the cable to the alternator ground terminal and cracked it.  A few days later it broke off completely while we were running the engine.  I ended up replacing the diodes in the alternator myself but it wasn't an easy job.  It took two days and I had to find a hotter soldering iron to melt the silver-solder (a high temp solder) used to mount the diodes.

After a little research on-line, I found a Sterling Alternator Protect Device from Compass Marine.  This was a rather simple box that monitored the alternator for high voltage (over 15 volts I think) and shunted this momentary current to ground protecting the alternator diodes.   It was a fairly simple installation and took only a couple hours to mount and wire to the alternator 12v+ and 12v- terminals.

Step 9 - Clean up.  I mounted a new 250 amp terminal block near where the old batteries were for our +12v cables to all connect together.  I also made up a wooden panel to mount the block from some leftover pine board used to make the battery box.  After a dry-fit of everything, I painted epoxy on the panel for waterproofing.  After drying, I mounted the terminal block and started to move all the big 2-0 battery cables and other boat wires that needed 12 volts.  I had to cut two of the wires to shorter lengths and crimped on new lugs.  I have hydraulic crimpers that works great for this.  After cutting and installing shrink-wrap over the wire ends, I had professional looking cables.

We have disconnected the boat from shore power for several hours and everything seems to be working fine.  I think this project is done!

Oh.  You might have noticed that I didn't mention our wind generator.  Our Air Breeze wind generator doesn't have a regulator to program.  It just stops charging when it senses the batteries are charged.  You set this cut-off voltage by turning a screw on the wind generator itself - about 30 feet above the deck.  When I'm running the wind generator in high winds and it's putting out 15-20 amps, I will watch it closely to see if it brings the batteries up to full charge without over charging.  

We've been using this wind and solar setup for several years now and they don't seem to quite keep up with our energy usage when anchored for several days.  I am always running the Honda 2200 generator for a couple hours every few days to make up for what we use versus what the solar and wind give us.  I don't think there is even a small chance of the wind generator overcharging the batteries but I will watch it in high winds.  It's easy enough to just shut off at the panel near the engine room.

Overview and Recommendations

As you can see from the details below, the LiFePo4 battery cells are not an overwhelming part of the overall costs.  If you wanted to start a project like this, I suggest you find the best place to put the cells and purchase as many as would fit in that area. I was pretty happy to find a spot where I could put 840 amp-hours of these EVE batteries.  This is actually about 3 times the usable amp-hours that I had with my 800ah AGM battery bank.  I didn't want to bring my AGMs below about 70% because that would lower the life span.  That gave me about 250ah of usable energy from them.  The LiFePo4 battery is fine with being discharged to 10% of full charge.  This gives me 750ah of usage from them.  Plus, they are rated for 5,000 - 10,000 cycles - about 10 years for us.  I'm really looking forward to a long-term friendship with them.

I was also pretty lucky that I had a programmable Balmar voltage regulator and Morningstar MPPT controller that could be set to the correct charging voltages.  If I had to replace our alternator and MPPT that would have added another $1,500 to the total and I might have just stayed with the AGMs.

Total Costs

(12) 280ah EVE LiFePo4 Cells 840
Shenzhen Senberry Tech LTD
Shipping 300


Daly Smart 4S 250A BMS 145
Hunan AUK New Energy Co
Shipping 55


Wood for batttery box 45


Wire, Connectors, Terminals 200
West Marine


Sterling Alternator Protect Dev 78


4' Copper bus-bar (2)  80
Onlinemetals.com


Longer M6 studs for batteries 20
Belmetric MA


DC Power Supply 55


Freedom XC Pro 3000 Inverter 1,200
Defender


Freedom X Bluetooth Remote 85
Defender


Total
    $3,103 

Sold old Xantrex Inverter                   $500

Total Cost                                      $2,603