Saturday, October 30, 2021

Trip South 2021 - Day 1 & 2

Summer Project(S)

My major project for the summer was replacing all of our electronics with updated equipment.  Our radar needed to be replaced because the screen had become "crazed" in the middle making it pretty useless.  My initial research indicated the new marine radars were a "whole new breed" and I liked the RayMarine Quantum radar a lot.  It even color-coded the ships around you - red for vessels coming toward you and green for vessels going away from you. 

Building on the new RayMarine Quantum Q23D radar base, I selected a 9' RayMarine Axiom Pro multi-function display (MFD), a RayMarine p70s Autopilot head, a Raymarine i70s multifunction display (configured for wind) and a RayMarine ITC-5 converter for using my old analog depth and wind instruments with new new digital dudes.

I selected a NavPod box which was custom made for these instruments.  I also changed my entire helm station by taking off the old instrument mounts and adding a new Edson Guard.  

But, before I could buy new instruments and mounts, I needed to do weeks of research on what would work with my existing transducers and how it would all wire together.  I found a diagramming / wiring application called ProfiCAD which would work on my Windows computer.  After a couple hours learning the software, I started putting everything together on the computer screen.  I think it took me about 2 weeks of research, planning and adjusting before I had something close to finished.  Thanks so much to my friend Paul who also owns an Endeavour 43 and just completed a new instrument project.  He was a great source of excellent advice.  Here was the final diagram.

 

I wanted to use as much of my existing equipment and wiring as possible but, as you can see from the color-codes in the diagram, only a few items were kept.  I planned for future expansion with both the SeaTalkNG and NMEA2000 networks by having extra connections available.  Future expansion might include a better depth transducer and tank sensors for our fuel, water and waste tanks.

First step was replacing the radar.  I could do this without removing my other instruments but it wouldn't be usable until I had the new Axiom hooked up.

I called my friend Rob for assistance with mast climbing and he readily agreed to come down and spend what ended up to be 5 hours, 30 feet above the deck on our mizzen mast.  Here he was disconnecting our old radar dish.

After getting the old system to the deck, we pulled a new power wire through the mast into the cockpit. (I would later run this down into the engine room and our instrument panel.)

The new 12 volt power wire to the radar dish is coiled on the seat.  Next to it is the old radar cable with power and wiring.  I would completely remove this wire from the boat as the new radar talks to the Axiom over Wi-Fi.  No big honkin' cable needed!

Rob then installed the new radar dish.  Luckily for us, RayMarine kept the same mounting holes so it was fairly easy to bolt into the existing mount.

Now Laura and I could start on the rest of the instruments and helm.

Here is what my helm looked like before I started.  Notice the radar screen on top is burned-out in the center.  When you are using radar to look at other vessels and objects around you at night, the center of the screen is most important.  This was really bad.

This is the forward (other side) of my old helm.  Notice all the wires coming up from a hole in the floor into the engine room underneath.

We started by removing all the old instruments and wiring.  Laura was a great helper.  Here she was helping with getting all the wires disconnected.

After removing all the instruments and freeing up all the wires, we took apart the pedestal.  We now had a large, but somewhat manageable, mess.

After cleaning everything up, we installed the new guard (hand-hold) and NavPod.  This NavPod was custom made (holes pre-cut) for the instruments I selected.  In this picture, the guard sticks way up above the NavPod.  Before permanently mounting everything, we would cut about 6 inches off the bottom of the guard so it wasn't sticking up and in the way when looking forward.

Before final install, I had to make sure my wiring was correct and the new instruments were working.  Here is my first power-on with the instruments wired.  Rob was very excited to hear the radar worked without any problems.  This was the first time I could test it after he installed it on our mizzen mast.

After final fits of the guard and NavPod then completing all the wiring, it looked pretty good.  Here I have everything working and mounted.  The new helm!

Here is the forward side of the pedestal after we plugged the hole with epoxy, sanded then repainted.  Compare this to the old picture of all the wires running down this side.

A few days after completing everything, we went on our first sea-trial.  It was awesome to see everything working after all our hard work.  I have the new display configured for split-screen - radar on the right and chartplotter on the left.  

This was a great result from a lot of work.  I know there are other makers of excellent marine electronics but because I had a RayMarine autopilot and transducers, it was almost a no-brainer for me to design around the RayMarine offerings.  I'm sure it would have been much more difficult to bring in a different instrument manufacturer and make everything work happily together.  All in all, I'm pleased with the RayMarine instruments.  Only experience and time will tell if the decision was right in the long run.

We also had planned to install a new teak cockpit table from Edson as part of this project.  Unfortunately, they were having supply problems with some of the fittings so it was not available right now.  We will probably order one when we get to Florida this winter.

While sailing back up from Florida in the spring, we noticed that the leach line on our jib had come unsewn in several places.  Also, some of the edges around the clew of our mainsail needed sewing.

In mid-September, we had some time and nice weather to start working on these.  We took down the mainsail and were able to re-sew the bad parts by hauling our SailRite sewing machine out onto the cabin top.  This job only took us maybe 3 hours including dropping, sewing and hauling up the sail back up on the roller.

We knew the jib was going to take more work so we setup the sewing machine under the marina tent with a couple re-arranged picnic tables.  It turned out the whole leach of the jib needed to be re-sewn - about 58 feet.  The sailmaker had use the sail fabric to loop around the leach-line then sewed it down creating a tunnel for the line.  Over time, parts of the cloth on the leach weathered in the Sun and became worn.  We decided to cut thin strips of sailcloth (that we had purchased for this job) and sew a new "tunnel" onto the edge of the sail for the leach line.  Oh boy.  This was a lot more work than we thought but it came out great.  Here is Laura working on the jib under the tent.  You can see about 1/3 of the jib in the picture.  The rest of it is outside the tent waiting to be pulled through the sewing machine.

We were able to complete this project in a day but we both had cramps in our hands that night from man-handling the sail through the sewing machine.  Yes - I took my turn too.

I had purchased 3 more portlights from Defender to continue the replacement job on Second Wind.  These were #16, 17 and 18.  As we were delayed a bit from heading south, we decided to install these in our aft cabin instead of waiting until we were in Florida.  We replaced the one on the starboard side which took about 3 hours.  Overview of the job was -

  • It started with using razor and putty knives to dig out the calk around the old ports and remove them.  
  • Then clean all the old calk off the boat with knives, sandpaper and lots of elbow grease (new calk doesn't stick well to old calk).  
  • Check the fit of the new ports and remove parts of the boat with sander or jigsaw that might block us from getting the new calk all the way around it.
  • Install new ports with through-bolted machine screws
  • Calk around the port and install the trim ring

The next day we moved the boat to the other side of our dock so we could get to the port side.  There were two ports we needed to replace here so we decided to do them at the same time to (theoretically) make things quicker.  Doing them together did save us overall time but it was too much work for one day.  Our fingers and arms were sore for several days and Ibuprofen became a good friend of mine. 

Sorry that we didn't get any pictures but you can review the blog from last spring if interested.

Friday, October 29th - Day 1

After several busy weeks of preparation, working on the boat and many other distractions, we finally left the dock in Catskill at 6:50am this morning - our latest date we've left Catskill in 14 years.  Our plan for today was to motor / sail 65 miles to Haverstraw Bay where we would anchor along the eastern shore for storms tonight and Saturday.  So far, Monday looks good for traveling off-shore down the NJ coast and up Delaware Bay on Tuesday.  We would like to get to Georgetown, MD where we have reservations for the Yacht Basin on Wednesday.

Laura and I were up at 6am making coffee and getting the boat ready.  It was cold out!  The temp was 35 degrees.  I dressed in many layers including long-johns.  I bet you wonder why I have them on the boat, right?  It's for days like today....

After getting all the instruments running, I started Gertrude (our Perkins engine) and worked on disconnecting us from the dock.  Last night I had removed all the storm lines and drained then stowed our hose.  I also had completely cleaned the decks and cockpit yesterday to prepare for leaving.

Laura helped by wiping down all the clear cockpit canvas which had become covered with condensation through the night.  Thankfully no frost!  (No defrosters on the boat....) Finally, at 6:50am, we pulled our last dockline and I put the transmission in reverse to back out of our slip.  It was dark with light fog in the creek.

We had a major storm 3 days ago which brought floods to the creek and surrounding area.  Yesterday I thought the current in the creek had gone way down and didn't even think about it as I backed out of the slip.  But, there was enough current to pull the stern of the boat sideways which I quickly recovered from by increasing the throttle and turning to port.  No problems slowly motoring down Catskill Creek in the dark.

As soon as we turned out onto the Hudson River, it was a whole new world.  It was like driving with a sheet across the front of the cockpit.  Even when driving at night you have lights on shore to help orient yourself.  Today we were completely fogged in and even when it started getting light a little while later, we couldn't see more than 100-200 feet from the boat.

Because of the big storm, there was still lots of debris and large logs / trees in the river.  Laura perched on on the bow with a searchlight to look for big stuff.  As we only motor at 6 mph, running into the little branches and logs is not a big deal but the big stuff can leave a mark.

After an hour or so our visibility (and the light) increased enough to where I could see, and try to avoid, the floaters in the river directly in front of us.  Laura was able to come in and warm up!

It took 3 hours for the fog to lift.  We were almost to the Kingston - Rhinecliff Bridge before we saw the shore on each side of the river.  Luckily, there was only one tug pushing a barge during that whole time and we were able to take the eastern channel around Germantown Reach so we didn't have to worry about coming close to each other.  Here we are approaching the Kingston Bridge.  You can see that most of the bridge is still in the fog.


The Sun finally came out around 10am and started warming up the cockpit.  It was a nice day for about 3 hours.  Then the clouds came over and blocked out the Sun for most of the day.  

One nice thing in our favor was the storm and floods from 3 days ago were still affecting the river tidal currents.  When we left the creek is was during full flood current and we should have been slowed down to 4.5-5 knots.  However, because of all the extra water from the rain, we never dropped below 6 knots all morning.  After passing Kingston, we started picking up the ebb current and our speed stayed in the mid 7s for the next 4 hours.

Because we were so late in the season, the river was deserted. Except for the one tug and barge (which I saw on radar and AIS but never visually saw), we had one southbound powerboat pass us around Hyde Park and saw a couple day-cruise boats down by West Point.  No other river traffic.  Part of this might be because the Erie and Champlain Canal locks closed on October 15th this year so no northern New York or Canadian traffic on the river heading south. 

I spent some time playing / using the new instruments and really love the new radar.  In the fog it was invaluable.  It was even sensitive enough to pick up some of the larger floating logs and trees around us.  That's pretty cool.  As we were working our way down the river using just instruments in the dense fog, I was very glad that I had done my homework and hooked up everything correctly because now wasn't the time to have problems with them.  

The new autopilot controller worked well, the new wind instrument seemed correct and the new chartplotter / radar were awesome.  I couldn't have been happier with the new systems.

The 67 nautical miles from Catskill Creek to Haverstraw Bay would typically take us about 11-12 hours.  Today, because of the recent floods, we were there in 10 hours.  Excellent!

We anchored in Halfmoon Bay at 5:20pm as the winds were just starting to pick up from the east.  Big storms expected tonight from the east so we anchored 1/4 mile from the eastern shore.  Nice and protected from any wind-driven waves and big hills in front of us to maybe cut town the 40 knot winds predicted for tonight.

After anchoring and relaxing a bit, Laura made Seafood Chowder for dinner (Thanks Betty!) and we relaxed with a few shows on Netflix and Hulu with our SmartTV hooked to our cell phone hotspot.  We hit the sack early and I was asleep by 10:15pm. I think I was really tired from trying to be super-diligent in the fog for several hours. There were squalls with high winds and rain all night but I slept through them with the AquaMaps anchor watch running on my iPhone right next to my head.  Looking at our anchor alarm track in the morning, the boat didn't move more than about 30 feet from where we anchored.  Nice test of our anchor rode on our first night heading south.

Saturday, October 30th - Day 2

We are sitting out the storms and south winds today in our nice protected anchorage in Halfmoon Bay.  Here is a screen-shot from AquaMaps of where we are.  The red dotted line shows where we motored south yesterday into Haverstraw Bay and the little icon of the sailboat is where we are now.  Notice the excellent protection from east and south winds at this anchorage.

Today we are catching up on a few projects.  As you can see, I spent several hours working on the blog.  Laura is carving her Halloween pumpkin.  We also stowed away all of our dock lines after drying them on our cabin top yesterday.  I'll check the engine in preparations for getting underway tomorrow morning when we plan on motor-sailing through New York City and anchoring behind the breakwater at Atlantic Highlands - one of our favorite anchorages.  I usually try to time the trip through New York City with the ebb tide helping so we don't spend as much time trying to dodge ferry-boats but tomorrow the tide is against us all afternoon.  Maybe we will get some help from the winds?

Winds will shift to the west tomorrow which should make for good off-shore sailing down the coast of New Jersey on Monday.  Wish us luck!

Friday, June 4, 2021

Annapolis to Georgetown, MD to NYC to Catskill

Thursday, May 27th - Day 43 (Start of week 7)

Storms and rain kept us awake a bit in the night but the big winds never made it into our very protected anchorage.  Autumn Borne left at first light and sent us this nice picture of Second Wind still sleeping at anchor.

We were up a short while later and pulled the anchor at 7:15am.  It was a calm morning as we motored out of the Severn River onto Chesapeake Bay.  Annapolis Harbor looked "normal" again after the thousands of boats anchored for the airshow when we came in.  Compare this picture to the one I posted a few days ago.

Windfinder.com showed light NW winds which should have been a little help to us motor-sailing up the bay.  But, the winds were actually closer to the bow so we really never got any help.  Instead, we motored on a calm Chesapeake with a little tidal current helping for the first couple hours.

We turned east into the Sassafras River just after 2pm.  Check out how calm the water was.

It is 9 miles from Chesapeake Bay to Georgetown, MD up the Sassafras River which we took at a normal leisurely pace.  We had never stayed at Sailing Associates before and looked forward to checking out a new (to us) marina.  We have stayed at Georgetown Yacht Basin - across the river - but heard they were closed.  Afterwards, we found out that the Yacht Basin was not closed and there were many boats at their docks.  

It was a hot, humid day with almost no breeze as we motored here from Annapolis.  I had our custom sun-shade canvas up to keep me out of the Sun while running the boat but was still soaked with sweat by time we docked.  At one point, I checked the weather app and it said, "88 degrees - feels like 103".  Yikes!

Good news is the marina had a nice pool.  We wore our bathing-suits to check-in and spent a very nice couple hours in and around the pool later in the afternoon.  Here is Laura in the pool with the marina office to the right and their bathrooms over to the left.

 

The marina manager, Pam, was very nice.  I paid for 3 nights thinking we might leave Sunday if the nasty weather was over by then.  The reason we decided to stay at the marina was storms predicted for Friday night, Saturday and Sunday.

Very colorful sunset at Sailing Associates Marina in Georgetown, MD

Marina WiFi was excellent and we watched a few shows on Disney+ and Netflix before hitting the sack early.

45nm today, 1,256.5 total trip miles

Friday, May 28th - Day 44

Last night the temps outside only went down to mid-70s and the boat was very warm because of the hot engine room.  We turned on our air-conditioning which dried out the boat and make it much more comfortable for sleeping.

Mid-morning we decided to go for a walk and loosen up our legs a bit.  It is hilly around here so it would be a good workout after spending several months in the flat coastal areas of the south.  The Sun was out when we left but clouds built in so we decided to make a loop of about 2.5 miles and not go too far from the boat which was opened up for fresh air.  As we were walking, the winds shifted to the north and you could feel the temperature drop.  It was nice for walking but felt cool when we got back to the boat.

Later in the afternoon we had a few showers then heavy rain and storms overnight.  No pool today but we did work on a few boat projects.  Our friend Lee had built me a wooden stand for the Captain's chair I purchased for motoring up and down the ICW.  It wasn't great for sailing but excellent for just driving the boat on calm waters.  After painting the decks and cockpit last Winter, the stand Lee made was making big marks on the softer, non-skid deck paint.  Laura had tried putting some rubber shelf-liner on the wooden stand so protect the decks.  Unfortunately, it didn't last and came off over the past couple weeks.

Today we tried a new fix - boat blanket.  We had purchased several yards of boat-blanket (a thicker material than canvas) for covering our new fenders.  We had a bit left so Laura cut some strips and we screwed them into the stand.  It looked pretty good and will still let me move the chair around for comfort but hopefully not slide or scratch the paint.  Now we just have to fix where the paint is all scratched.  That will have to wait for some nicer days.

There is a nice restaurant nearby called The Granary and we planned on going there for happy-hour today.  Unfortunately, after checking on the Internet, their happy-hour was only Tuesday to Thursday.  Plus the weather was turning nasty so we decided to stay on the boat for cocktails and dinner.

Saturday, May 29th - Day 45

Not much going on today.  Storms and rain almost all day kept us in the boat puttering around.  The rain did let up for a bit in the late afternoon so I walked up to the office and paid for Sunday night too.  The weather forecast for Sunday showed clearing and winds out of the north which might have been nice for just going down the river a few miles and anchoring.  But, the temps were going to stay in the 50s so we decided to stay here where we would have heat while plugged into the dock.

I did practice the flute in the afternoon and have been working on some new, very challenging music with come complicated fingering in the higher register.  Since I was playing inside the closed-up boat, while I was collecting my flute and music, I also grabbed the ear-defenders I use while working in the engine room with a running diesel.  I handed them to Laura saying she might need them because I was working on some new music.  She smiled and put them on.  'nuff said......

Laura cooked some boneless chicken breasts in the Insta-Pot and made Chicken chow mein for dinner.  We've found that cooking chicken in the Insta-Pot makes it very flavorful and juicy.  It was excellent.

Sunday, May 30th - Day 46

It looks like we have an excellent weather window for motor-sailing up the NJ coast on Tuesday and Wednesday.  Plans are to leave here early tomorrow and travel the 40 or so nautical miles to Reedy Island on the north end of Delaware Bay.  There is a nice anchorage there and we could catch the early morning ebb tide Tuesday morning for the run down the bay and up the coast.  Current forecast shows winds from a helping direction the whole way and seas in the 2 foot range.  Excellent!

Last night the temps went down to the high-40s and we kept our central heat on all night.  The boat stayed comfortable and I had turned the heat down so it stayed cool in our cabin (but not cold).  Only one day from air-conditioning to heat.  Are we becoming wussies or is this crazy weather?  Probably a little of both...

This morning Laura went up and coordinated with the manager Pam for a ride to the local grocery store.  We were getting a little low on fresh veggies which we eat quite a bit of. I eat them every day for lunch with 1/2 a chicken or ham sandwich.  This grocery run will stock us up for the next week or so.  We'll probably be in Atlantic Highlands area on Wednesday but nasty weather is coming again on Thursday and Friday so we might not leave the boat for many days. Oh well...  we like it here.

Catching up on laundry is next on the list.  I'm going to help Laura carry the laundry basket the 1/4 mile or so to the coin laundry at the next marina over.  There isn't laundry at this marina but they have a deal with the Sassafras Harbor Marina so we can use their laundry.  Maybe I'll practice the challenging music on my flute while Laura is gone with the laundry....  Do you want to know what the songs are?  One is Mozart's "Eine Kleine Nachtmusik - IV Rondo".  It's a doozy on the flute.

We finished our laundry and a few other boat projects to get underway again tomorrow.  Since we would be probably motoring for over 30 hours, I was especially critical during my engine checks.  I topped off the oil and water / antifreeze then tightened the alternator belts just a bit.  I think we are ready!

Monday, May 31st to Tuesday Jun1st - Days 47 & 48

We were up early and off the dock at 6:50am.  I like leaving early on travel days which gives us more options for where to stop at night.  No problems getting away from the dock and the weather was sunny and clear as we slowly motored out of Georgetown.  I had thought about getting fuel before we left but the fuel dock at the next marina didn't open until 8am.  We had enough fuel on-board to motor about 500 miles but diesel is usually cheaper here than Atlantic Highlands or Catskill.  If we fill up here, we can go all the way to Catskill and back to here in the Fall on the same tank.  Diesel here was $2.74 / gallon but we motored right by as they were closed.

Winds were about 10 knots on our nose as we motored the 9 miles out of the Sassafras River to Chesapeake Bay.  Once we turned up the bay toward the Chesapeake & Delaware Canal, winds were on the beam so we rolled out our jib and mainsail.  Not quite enough wind to sail over 5 knots so we kept the motor running at low RPMs.

A couple hours later we turned east into the C&D canal and rolled in the sails.  We had the currents with us and we motored at 7-8 knots the 15 miles to Delaware Bay at the other end of the canal.  Only interesting thing that happened was I noticed the free dock in Chesapeake City was open.  We've only seen room at that dock once in the 10 years since they built it.  Figures it would be open when we didn't need it.

Dean and Sue on Autumn Borne were about an hour ahead of us.  They had been anchored on the Sassafras River while we were at the dock in Georgetown.  Dean and I texted each other during the morning and he said it was very nice out on Delaware Bay.  They were catching the last part of the ebb tide so had currents helping for a bit so decided to press on to the Harbor of Refuge anchorage at Cape Henlopen.  This got Laura and I thinking about if we should keep going past our planned anchorage at Reedy Island and maybe do the coastal trip tonight.

I checked all my weather apps and it didn't seem to make much difference in terms of winds or seas if we did the NJ coast tonight or tomorrow.  We would have the Delaware Bay currents against us for several hours but it would change to helping about 1/2 way down the bay.  

The two items that helped us decide to keep going were Dean said the winds were help them and I thought we could get around Cape May before dark.  It's great traveling this time of year when it doesn't get dark until 9pm.  We exited the canal, turned south on Delaware Bay and put out our big sails with 10 knots of wind just behind the beam (broad-reach).  

The trip down Delaware Bay was very pleasant.  Light winds made only a little chop on the water coming from behind us and they kept our boat speed over 5 knots against the flood current.  4 hours later when the current changed, we ran 7-8 knots all the way to Cape May.  

This 50 miles run down Delaware Bay can be very nasty so we carefully choose our weather.  It's almost impossible for us to make this run with the winds on the nose or any seas on the bow.  Without helping winds, we don't have enough horsepower in our little Perkins diesel to push us through waves and winds on the nose.  But, today was excellent until an hour before Cape May.  The winds turned to the south and picked up to mid-teens.  We were traveling SE so there was just enough wind angle for our mainsail to help the boat speed and calm the movement in the growing sea.  

The Cape May ferry passed in front of us a little while later.

 

We rounded Cape May through the Prissywick Channel about an hour before sunset.  It was nice to have the currents with us for a change.  Typically we leave the C&D with the currents helping and, by time we get to Cape May, they have changed to against us.  Today was a different story as we ran 7 knots all the way around Cape May and headed up the coast of NJ.  

Here was our colorful sunset over Cape May a little while later.  I worked hard to get the flag in the picture to help celebrate Memorial Day!


Laura decided to try sleeping just after sunset since it had been a long day for us.  Unfortunately, the seas were off the starboard quarter and just high enough to roll the boat in a corkscrew motion when the bigger ones came by.  The boat would be nice and stable for maybe a minute then a set of larger waves would rock us 10 degrees to each beam.  It was not a fun ride.  I had the main and jib configured for a broad-reach which puts them way out from the boat to catch the winds behind us.  This let us run lower RPMs and keep our speed over 6 knots.  But, it was not a nice ride.

A little while later, I pulled the mainsail in tight for roll-control.  This helped immensely to calm down the roll on the higher seas.  We only lost about 1/2 knot which I made up by increasing the engine RPMs slightly.  Now it should be calm enough for Laura to sleep a bit.

As we passed Atlantic City a few hours later, we were able to turn a little more north which put the close swell more behind us.  Now the ride was much better and I was able to let the mainsheet out a bit to help with the boat speed.

When on our night watches, each of us tries to let the other sleep as much as possible.  Laura went down at 9pm for an expected 4 hours off.  I was going to let her sleep until 2am as I was able to stay awake by watching the stars and 1am moonrise.  She came up and relieved me at 1:30am and I was happy to go down for a snooze.

Sometimes when we are at sea overnight, we don't sleep at all - especially the first night.  It depends on the motion of the boat.  If the roll is too much on the larger waves, it wakes you up every couple minutes.  But, we've seen in the past on multi-night trips that the second night you can sleep through just about anything.

Tonight was just a slow "rock-a-bye-baby" kind of motion.  I think I slept 4 hours straight before waking up.  Even then I rolled back over and slept for another hour.  By then it was light out so I got dressed and went to relieve Laura from her watch.  Our agreement is that if the person on watch is too tired to stay awake, they wake up the other person immediately.  I guess she was doing OK because she was still wide awake when I came up into the cockpit.

By this time we were passed Barnegate Bay and approaching Manasquan Inlet.  The winds had moved from the west so I put out the full main and jib.  Once again not enough wind to sail over 5 knots but the ride was nice.  I think Laura slept soundly for 2-3 hours.  Our ride the rest of the day was fairly calm.

At 3pm we motored behind the breakwater at Atlantic Highlands.  Since we really didn't know where we were going next, since the winds were light I decided to head to the fuel dock for diesel and water.  We took on 72 gallons of diesel (from Norfolk) and a little water.   I knew the fuel would be more expensive here but still lots cheaper than Catskill.  Diesel was $3.50 / gallon here (compared to $2.49 in Georgetown).  1/2 hour later we were anchored behind the breakwater and relaxing with a cocktail to celebrate another successful overnight passage.

Laura had taken Filet Mignon's out of the freezer that she had purchased at Aldi's in New Bern when we were in Oriental.  I grilled them up for dinner and we ate in the cockpit enjoying the New York City skyline in the distance.  No pictures because it was very hazy.  Sorry.

I think we hit the sack at 9pm and slept for 10 hours.  We both needed it!

203nm in the past two days, 1,459.5 total trip miles

Wednesday, June 2nd - Day 49 (end of week 7)

We relaxed in the morning with really no plans for today.  As tired as we were yesterday, I had thought of staying here anchored for 2-3 days with maybe a couple excursions into town with the dinghy.  But...  our plans change all the time.

While not at a dock or mooring, our lives are very dependent on the weather.  Where we go and what we do are almost always a direct result of the weather forecasts.  Today our plans changed completely because of the forecasts.

Today was supposed to be nice with showers and thunderstorms coming later in the day.  Then tomorrow was nasty but by Friday things would calm down for several days.  On our way up the coast, we had talked about staying in this protected anchorage a couple days then taking the boat up through NYC and out into Long Island Sound for a week or two.  I had looked at the weather and wind forecast and it looked pretty nice for the next week or so.

But, this morning I checked out the sea forecast on WindFinder.com and PredictWind.com.  Even though the winds were light, seas in Long Island Sound were going to be 4-5 feet for several days.  What's up with that?  The winds were going to be out of the south to southwest for several days so you would think the seas on the northern Long Island shore would be low.  But no.  I checked two different spots along the northern LI coast and they said 3-5 foot seas.  Yuck!  It was not going to be a nice sail around Long Island Sound.  Change of plans....

Autumn Borne had stayed a night at Cape Henlopen then motor-sailed up the coast about 12 hours behind us.  They had stopped this morning just before the Verrazano Bridge at a fairly open anchorage called Graves End.  They were waiting for the flood tide to begin in a couple hours then they were heading up the Hudson to Haverstraw today then our docks at Catskill tomorrow. 

We checked the tide and current tables for NYC and saw that about 2 hours from now the flood current would start.  It would take us 2 hours to get there.  Time to boogie!

In about 15 minutes we stowed everything away, I did my engine checks, started the engine and set up all my instruments.  We pulled the muddy chain and anchor (typical for here.  That's why the holding is so good!) and were underway heading north at 11am.  I had computed we could make the Haverstraw anchorages by around 6pm which were about 50 miles away.  The tidal currents should be adding 1-2 knots to our speed almost the whole way.

An hour later we were motor-sailing under the Verrazano Bridge.


Another hour to the Statue of Liberty.


And then entering the Hudson River at Manhattan.

There is a new park that was built over the past few years over the water on the Manhattan Side of the river.  It is called Little Island and was funded by billionaire Barry Diller.  It consists of 132 "mushrooms" planted into the Hudson with a park on top for the public to enjoy and smaller concerts / attractions.  Here is a link to more information - Little Island.  I took this neat picture as we motored by.


We averaged over 7 knots for the day and were in the 9s several times with the wind helping on our big sails.  It was an excellent day on the Hudson.

Autumn Borne had anchored in Halfmoon Bay (part of Haverstraw Bay) and I was planning on anchoring over there too.  But, the forecast for tomorrow didn't look too good so I thought we might be sitting for a couple days.  That anchorage is open the wakes from powerboats so I instead decided to motor into Haverstraw Cove where we would have great protection from storms and wakes.

No problems getting in through the shallow inlet since we were at high tide.  I could see that we would have been close to grounding if the tide had been low.  We had 3 feet of tide under us and I saw 8.5 feet on the depth sounder.  Our keel would have been "rubbing" at low tide.

We anchored in the northern end because there was a 25' power boat anchored on the south side with several young persons partying and blasting music.  There was also a jetski zooming around (not near us thankfully) and a dance party in the park.  This has always been the quietest place when anchoring here in the past.  What happened?  By sundown, all the noisy folks had left and we had the calm anchorage all to ourselves.

Just before bedtime, I checked the weather forecast again.  Things had changed with storms moving to later in the day tomorrow.  Laura and I discussed then decided to head out at first light to catch the end of the flood current up the river.  We would try for Catskill tomorrow and the end of our trip north.

50nm today, 1,509.5 total trip miles

Thursday, June 3rd - Day 50

We both slept really well as I think we were still a little sleep-deprived after our overnight up the coast.  I woke up around 4:45am and decided to get going.  This happens more often than not.  I had set the alarm for 5am and woke up 15 minutes early.  I must have a pretty good internal clock!

No problems out of the anchorage and we again turned the boat north up the Hudson.  I tried to see if Autumn Borne had left their anchorage and I couldn't see any masts in that direction so assumed they were ahead of us.  I didn't want to text Dean in case he decided to sleep in today.  It was only 5:30am...

Winds helped a little as we ran the jib out on either port or starboard as required to keep it full motoring up the river.  A few hours later I saw this beautiful scene on the western shore and turned the boat around to take a picture.  How pretty is this?


We made it almost to Poughkeepsie before the current changed to against us and slowed to 5 knots.  There was just enough helping wind that the boat never dropped below 5 knots and we made pretty good time the rest of the day.

In the late afternoon around Saugerties the winds picked up to almost 20 knots from the south and I had to take a reef in the jib so the winds were not blowing us down the waves so bad.  We were only about 10 miles from Catskill so we just ran with the waves and winds.

Laura and I got the boat ready for her first dock in several days by dropping the solar panels and cleaning up the decks a bit.  As we turned into Catskill Creek, Laura setup our docklines and pulled our starboard jib sheet and jib roller line to the lifelines to get them out of the way.  We'd done this about 200 times during our charters here so it was like she was on autopilot.

At 4:15pm we pulled into our slip at Catskill Marina with a few locals on the dock to help.  We were tied up a short while later and enjoying a cocktail with the marina manager Mike.

Here is our great boat Second Wind at the dock in Catskill.  Looks like I have a lot of cleaning to do....

 

Autumn Borne ended up being a little behind us and came in around 6pm.  We had a nice reunion and ordered takeout from J&Js Smokehouse for dinner together on the marina lawn where we reminisced about out trip.  

It was a very nice, relaxing trip from Marathon to Catskill.  We didn't push ourselves or the boat other than my trying to rush through Georgia where I just wanted to make the miles because of the twisty-turny ICW and shallow water in many spots.  Once we were in South Carolina, we slowed down and took our time.  We did visit a few new places and different anchorages which is always nice.  

Lots of projects on my plate for this summer including rebuilding my whole instrument panel in the cockpit with more up-to-date electronics and a new RADAR plus replacing our old cockpit table which is not worth trying to save.  I'm also going to look into having the boat hauled and replacing the propeller shaft.  It's been "throbbing" the whole trip north and seemed much worse the last week or so.  I don't think it's to the point where it would not last another 1,000 miles but i would rather not take the chance.

And!  Guest what!  For only the 2nd time in 31 trips, I DIDN'T RUN AGROUND!  Woo Hoo!

65.5nm today, 1,575 total trip nautical miles.

Trip Stats -

Anchored 20 nights

Mooring 8 nights

Marina 20 nights

Overnight at sea 1 night


As I've said in the past, I really write this blog for myself.  I enjoy going back through and reminding myself of the places we've been and things we've done.  I hope you've enjoyed it too!

 

If you would like to see more of the "Travels of Bill and Laura", we've published 4 books on Amazon covering our first 11 years of cruising including almost 2 years cruising the Caribbean, 8 years of starting and running a charter business, lots of work to make Second Wind a better cruising boat, then sailing to other Bahamas islands we hadn't visited before and Cuba! 

All the books are offered in Kindle version (about $5 each) and the first two are also offered in paperback with full color pictures.  You can check out our books by clicking here - Books by Bill Soulier

Here is an overview of our published books...

Book 1 - Sail Away
Bill and his wife Laura travel on their 43’ sailing ketch Second Wind from the United States through the Caribbean for over a year to South America.  This book is written from the detailed Blog that they kept almost every day - from boat purchase to 4 months working on the boat, sailing to Florida, then leaving the United States to sail the Caribbean to South America, until just over a year later when they leave the boat in Trinidad for 3 months.  Details of their travels include over 130 full-color pictures of people, places and (of course) the boat, which they share in this book.

Book 2 – SAIL UP THE PACIFIC
Bill flies to Auckland, New Zealand where he continues his sailing life on the 48’ Ketch Capaz – sailing “up” the Pacific from New Zealand to Hawaii over a 2-month period.  Starting from Bay of Islands, New Zealand, they sail to Tonga, American Samoa, Suwarrow and Penrhyn (Cook Islands), Kiribati (Christmas Island) and Hawaii.  Included are over 50 beautiful, full-color pictures of the trip. 
At the same time, Laura flies to Seattle to be with her daughter who is pregnant and due any day.  Most of these entries are posted by Laura as she receives intermittent emails from Bill out on the Pacific.

Book 3 – SAIL HOME
Bill and Laura fly back to Trinidad in January 2008 and sail Second Wind to Venezuela then up the Leeward and Windward islands and, eventually, back to the United States and the Hudson River.  There they start a successful charter business in Catskill, NY (on The Hudson in summers) and the Florida Keys (Marathon during the winters).  They find many rewards and challenges in 8 years of running a charter business which are detailed in this book along with over 200 beautiful, full-color pictures from their travels and charters.

Book 4 – SAIL ON
Retired from chartering, Bill and Laura perform some major upgrades on Second Wind for a new cruising life – new galley and refrigeration, solar and wind power, new jib and main roller furling, and new bow pulpit.  No longer rushing up and down the coast for charters, they sail to new places including Cuba and Eleuthera in the Bahamas.  Over 130 full-color pictures of their boat upgrades and beautiful new places are included in the book.

 

Wednesday, May 26, 2021

Solomons to Annapolis

Tuesday, May 25th - Day 41

Anchor up at 7:30am on a nice morning after lots of rain during the night.  There were many of boats joining us for the trip up the bay since the waves and winds were light today.  As we motored onto Chesapeake Bay, I could see 7 sailboats and 6 powerboats within a few miles of us.

We turned north around Cove Point and put out our big jib and mainsail.  The winds were behind our starboard beam, broad reach, and the apparent wind was only in the 6-10 knot range.  I tried sailing a bit with the engine in neutral but our speed quickly dropped below 5 knots so I kept the engine running all day at lower than our normal cruise RPM.  I took this picture shortly after raising sail.  Seas were low and the ride was nice.

As we motor-sailed around Cove Point, I could see a large tanker on the huge docks that stuck way out into the Chesapeake.  I've only seen a boat here maybe once or twice in over 30 trips so this was a treat.  The ship had an unusual deck layout so I took a couple pictures.  She was the LNG Carrier Gail Bhuwan.  Very interesting.

It was a nice motor-sail up the bay.  The winds increased a little later in the afternoon and went behind us.  I tried jibbing the main to starboard for wing-on-wind but the seas were a little too high and kept flogging the jib.  If he had a wisker-pole to hold out the jib it would have been nice but we don't sail downwind that often.  Instead I rolled in the jib and turned back on course using just the mainsail to help.

Several hours later we approached the entrance to Annapolis and the Severn River.  Our friends Dean and Sue had been in Annapolis for a few days anchored in Weems Creek.  They had told us that this might be a crazy time in Annapolis because this was graduation week at the Naval Academy and the Navy Blue Angles were flying tomorrow.  But, they were using today for practice so the harbor might be busy.  

Holy Cow!  As we pulled into the harbor I thought they had built a new marina or something.  There were thousands of boats anchored in the large harbor and the Blue Angles were just starting their practice / show.  It was pretty neat as they were flying right over us to turn and stage for another pass over the harbor.  Here are a couple pictures Laura took while we were motoring into the harbor.  Notice all the boats anchored in the first picture.  This is Annapolis harbor.



 She also took this nice fly-by video.

The harbor was really packed with boats.  I made the mistake of keeping our mainsail up while motor-sailing into the anchored boats and it was very hard to find a place where we could turn up-wind for a couple minutes and pull in the sail.  

Here is a picture I took of my RADAR while motoring through all the anchored boats.  It's a little hard to understand because there is a large glare on the screen.  But, if you look through the glare at the screen itself, all of the little dark dots are boats anchored around us as we are motoring by.  The RADAR is zoomed way in to show just 1/2 mile around us.

Laura also took this short video of all the boats anchored around us as we motored around in the harbor.  Check out all the boats!

 

I had called the Annapolis Harbormaster on my phone to see if they had any open moorings.  I figured they would not with all this boat traffic but thought I would try.  Nope.  All the moorings in Annapolis were taken.  I then called Dean and he said there was plenty of room to anchor around them in Weems Creek.  Great!  Here we come!

Not so fast....  We were yelled at by a Harbormaster boat that the Severn River was not open to boat traffic yet.  So, I spent the next 10 minutes slowly motoring around all the anchored boats until I they announced on the radio that the river was open.  Good news was we found a little open spot to pull in our mainsail.  I navigated the 2 miles to the anchorage around many anchored boats and we dropped our anchor just behind Autumn Borne at 3:45pm.  Phew.  What a day!

But wait, it's not over yet.....  Dean and Sue came over in their dinghy a short time later to "welcome us to the neighborhood."  We had a cocktail with them and caught up on personal news.  They left a short time later as we had dinner plans with our friends Chris and Bob who live about 45 minutes away.

Just before 6pm we met Chris and Bob at the Weems Creek boat launch which also qualifies as a dinghy dock.  After dragging the dinghy up on the beach and locking it to a park bench, we decided to try a local Walgreens for Laura's second Covid shot (plus they have a great wine store).  She really got lucky that the pharmacy was still open AND the last person scheduled for the shot had not showed up.  Laura only had to wait a short time and then she was Covid-proof.  Yea!

I purchased a case of wine at the same store mixed with several different bottles we like.  The total came to $100 for 12 bottles.  That's a great price for decent wine.  We then decided on Mexican for dinner and drove a short distance to the Mexican Cafe.  Food was so-so but the Margaritas were excellent.  After spending a couple hours catching up and eating / drinking, we decided to try our favorite wine bar in downtown Annapolis.  We actually found a parking spot and, after a short walk, got a table outside near the street at the Red Red Wine Bar. It was a fun ending to a great day as we sipped nice wine with friends while watching all the folks in downtown Annapolis during graduation week.

Bob drove us back to the dinghy and we said another sad good-bye.  No problems as we motored back to Second Wind other then a few wine-caused configuration errors as I tried to haul up the dinghy.  

Tomorrow is supposed to be stormy in the afternoon so we are planning on staying another day anchored here.  Then maybe Thursday we will sail up to the Sassafras River and anchor for a few days or check out a new marina.  It doesn't look like decent weather and winds for heading up the coast of NJ until at least Monday or Tuesday so we have several days to play in this area.

47nm today, 1,216.5 total trip miles.

Wednesday, May 26th - Day 42

I did not sleep well last night which typically happens with too much red wine.  It wasn't until 10am that I pulled myself out of bed after my (sometimes) morning ritual of 150 sit-ups, crunches and leg-lifts then lots of stretching for this old body.  That helped get me motivated!

After a small breakfast and coffee (which I've recently started drinking again) I decided to catch up the blog with everything that happened yesterday.  Today will be much calmer assuming the thunderstorms scheduled for this afternoon are not too bad.

It's now 7:30pm and, so far, the thunderstorms have gone around us.  It was a very warm day with temps in the high 80s and very humid.  The Blue Angels show this afternoon was a blast.  Here's one video I took of them flying passed the back of our boat and the U.S. flag we have up.  Laura and I were getting stiff necks watching them fly right over us in Weems Creek.

This afternoon I practiced my flute a bit then read in the cockpit trying to keep in the breeze a little.  We made burgers on the grill for dinner and I decided to cool down the boat by closing up and running the air-conditioning off our Honda generator.  It's much nicer in here now!

I mentioned we might check out a marina in Georgetown, MD over the next few days.  I called them this afternoon on the chance they would have a slip for us.  It turns out they did and I booked the next 4 nights at Sailing Associates Marina in Georgetown.  We're looking forward to staying at a new place!  Just a note that we might have stayed in Annapolis for a few more days if we could have picked up a mooring in the harbor or Back Creek.  Then we would have had much better access to town and I wouldn't have had to worry about our boat on anchor.  Who knows?  If we don't get a weather window next week for a run up the coast to New York City, maybe we'll come back....

Right now, the weather tomorrow looks good for sailing north to the Sassafras River but the next several days will have high winds and storms - not good for moving on.  We'll hang out in Georgetown or go anchor on the Sassafras if we get delayed more than a couple days.





Monday, May 24, 2021

Oriental to Norfolk to Reedville to Solomons

As my sister Denise reminded me yesterday on the phone, I haven't been very good lately about keeping up our blog.  Since I have a couple hours free this afternoon, I will attempt to piece together the past 2 weeks.  It's good that we upload all of our phone pictures to Amazon Photos and Laura keeps our ship's log updated when we travel.  These will make is much easier to jog my brain into remembering the big parts.

Tuesday, May 11th - Day 27

We were going to move the boat today to a free dock that D had setup for us in Oriental but I decided to stay at the marina because it was close to them and very convenient for getting together and coordinating rides with their car.  It's $65 per night here so not too bad.

Winds did turn from the NE so the water level went up about 1 1/2 feet.  We were floating again!

Tomorrow was supposed to be storms all day so I worked on a few outside boat projects today while D and Laura drove to New Bern for groceries and other running around.

D and Don joined us for dinner and we also invited our friend Ann.  Ann and Doug have a boat in the marina but they just bought a house a few hours away so they are only here intermittently.  

We decided to order take-out pizza from Silos - a local restaurant.  D went to pick it up while I opened our last bottle of Story Picnic Hill Zinfandel wine.  It was great to share our favorite wine with folks who could appreciate it.  They loved it!

It was another nice evening with friends and I think we finished two other bottles of red wind too.

Wednesday, May 12th - Day 28

Thunderstorms started during the night and rain continued most of the day.  Don said it hadn't rained much in the past month so the rain was welcome.  We puttered around the boat and I made several trips to the garbage on the other side of the marina (in the rain).  Later in the afternoon, the rain let up a bit and I decided to install the new battery in our dinghy. 

A few years ago, I added a battery and depth sounder to our dinghy before we traveled to Cuba.  My thinking was the charts were not very good for along the coast and I might use the dinghy to sound for deeper water.  A 12 volt depth sounder would make things much easier.  Last fall the battery wouldn't hold a charge so I bought a new one a few weeks ago (off Amazon) and had it shipped to Karen and Tim in Emerald Isle.  Today was a good day to work on that.

I also purchased a small, 20 watt solar panel to keep this battery charged.  I had purchased a small plug-in charger with the old battery but didn't use it very often.  That's probably why the battery wouldn't hold a charge anymore.

I hooked up the solar panel and it was slowly charging the battery even though it was cloudy out.  Success!

We had D and Don over for dinner again.  Laura made her awesome Chicken Tortilla Soup which every enjoyed in the cockpit with our heat on.  The storm had turned the temps much colder.  We were supposed to grill Filet Magnon that the girls had purchased yesterday but I vetoed that for hot soup.  The high temp this afternoon was only 58.

After dinner we watched several YouTube videos of Geoff Castellucci who has the lowest bass voice of anyone I've ever heard.  We had a good time listening to see how low he could sing.

It was sad cruiser good-byes, "See you soon!" as we will be leaving early tomorrow morning.  It was a fun 4 days with good friends.

Thursday, May 13th - Day 29 (start of week 5)

Water levels dropped a bit in the night but we were able to get off the dock without a major mishap.  Except....  We were using the piling off our port bow to spring-off and work the stern away from the wall.  Just as I was ready to back away, I looked up and saw Laura had the spring-line in her hand.  I was going to admonish her for letting go of the line without me telling her when she said, "The piling fell over!".  What the...?   The piling was gone.  Just pushing against it a little must have broken it off and it sunk into the water.  Good thing it waited until we were away from the dock and I was ready to backup.  I had the boat about 1/2 throttle in forward gear with the helm hard to starboard to work the stern out.  We would have smashed right into the wall it the piling had let go 10 seconds earlier.  Geez!

On the way out I followed our chartplotter track that we had made on the way in.  Since the water was a little higher this time, we had no problems and were motoring east on the Neuse River 30 minutes after leaving the marina.

The winds were on the nose about 10 knots with light seas.  We were motoring into the wind and small waves but neither were high enough to cause problems - this was the forecast for all morning so I was happy  The boat was moving along nicely at 5 knots for about the first 1/2 hour.  The winds gradually increased from 10 to 25 over the next 1/2 hour and the shallow water let the waves build to 3-4 foot close waves.  This was deja-vous all over again (a great Yogi Berra quote)!   The exact same thing happened last year on this section of the Neuse.

I don't think it got as bad as last year but we were down to 3 knots before taking the turn NW up the Bay River.  The boat was covered in salt from the spray of the bow crashing into the waves.  Not a nice morning.

The rest of our day was quiet with occasional sailing when the winds were not on the nose.  We decided to stop a little early and not go through the Pungo-Alligator Canal.  We anchored at 4:30pm in the Pungo River just north of the canal entrance.  It was a nice evening and we enjoyed our solitude after 4 nights at the marina.  

47nm today, 945 total trip miles

Friday, May 14th - Day 30

This section from Oriental to Norfolk can take 3 easy days or 2 very long days.  We were not in any hurry so decided to make it 3 easy days.

Anchor up at 7:30am after a quiet night.  No lights or marina sounds around made for great sleeping.

We motored into the 20 mile canal only a few minutes after pulling the anchor.  This is one of my least favorite parts of the ICW as we motor for 3-4 hours down a long narrow channel.  It's nice that we have a great autopilot and the boat will usually run for a couple minutes or so right down the middle.  But it will gradually drift to one side or the other so you have to keep constant vigilance.  Plus, on nice travel days like this, we get passed every 15-20 minutes by power boats.  In this narrow canal, they are (almost) always nice and slow down so we don't get rocked too hard by their wake.

We popped out into the Alligator River a few hours later.  Once again the winds were on the nose but only in the 10-15 knot range - not as bad as yesterday.  I think we only had a little spray on the bimini by time we arrived at the Alligator River bridge a few hours later.

Later in the afternoon we crossed the Albemarle Sound.  Winds were on the nose but not too high so the seas were light.  It was a pretty easy crossing of this 14 mile wide shallow water.  We've seen much worse.

As we turned more north up the North River, the winds fell off to the east and we were able to sail for an hour or so before anchoring by the north end at 6pm.  During this section up the North River, we passed 1,000 nautical miles from Marathon. Tomorrow should be a short day - only about 40 miles to the free dock at Great Bridge.

Just after sunset I took this colorful picture of the western sky.  I like the way some of these sunsets light up the water.

60.5 miles today, 1005.5 total trip miles.

Saturday, May 15th - Day 31

After another quiet night we pulled our anchor at 8:30am.  Our friends Dean and Sue on Autumn Borne were anchored about 1/2 mile away from us.  We had been traveling together on and off for the past few days.  Not really buddy-boating but keeping in touch by text and staying in sight most of the time.  Shortly after we pulled the anchor, Dean texted me that he had started the engine then it died.  We waited a few minutes before leaving to make sure they would be Ok.  A few minutes later Dean had it running again and we motored back to the ICW.  This was a warning of what to expect later....

No issues as we motored passed famous Coinjock, NC and through the North Landing River into Virginia - our 5th state.  We timed our arrival at the North Landing Bridge to coinside with their 2:30 scheduled opening.  I was in front with Dean only about 1/4 mile behind us as we approached the bridge a few minutes before the opening.

A few minutes later I hear Dean dropping his anchor behind us and he texts me that his engine stalled again.  Now it was stalling whenever he took it out of gear.  Oh boy.  The bridge opened a few minutes later but we stayed with Autumn Borne in case they needed assistance.  

Dean was able to bleed his fuel lines and get the engine running again just before the 3pm bridge opening.  His plan was to nurse the boat to the free dock in Great Bridge which was only about 7 miles away.

I went through the bridge when I hear Dean say on the radio that his engine died again and he was dropping the anchor.  The bridge tender was holding the bridge open for a few minutes to see if he could get it going again.  I asked Dean if he wanted me to stay in case they needed help.  He told me to continue on to the free dock and I could dinghy back quickly if he needed me.  The bridge closed between us and we motored on.

A short while later Dean said he had called Boat/U.S. for a tow but they would take an hour to get there from Coinjock.  We tied up at the last section available of the free dock at 4:30pm and continued to stay in touch with Dean.

Autumn Borne was towed into the Atlantic Yacht Basin marina just across the canal from us.  Laura and I decided on Kentucky Fried Chicken for dinner and we walked to the store only about 1/2 mile away.  We decided to purchase enough for the 4 of us and met Dean and Sue at the dock shortly after they tied up.  They were very excited to see we had dinner for all of us.  Tomorrow Dean will replace all his fuel filters and see how things go from there.

41nm today, 1046.5 total trip miles

Sunday, May 16th - Day 32

We walked to the grocery store and spent a quiet day on the boat.  There are always a lot of geese around her in the Spring and, during one walk, we saw these larger geese with lots of little guys so I took a short video.  Sorry about all the traffic noise in the background.


Later in the afternoon Dean asked me for some help with getting his engine running after he changed the fuel filters.  I walked over and we had it running nicely about an hour later.  He tried putting the transmission in and out of gear several time and no problems.  Yea!

Dean and Sue invited us to dinner at Chili's and we accepted.  It was fun being out again with friends.  They are probably going to stay another day to relax and we'll be heading north again in the morning.

Monday May 17th - Day 33

We were both awake early so we decided (well... really I decided...) to get going and make the 7am opening of the Great Bridge Bridge.  No issues as we passed through the bridge and into the Great Bridge Lock shortly afterwards.  The lock has rubber bumpers on the port side (heading north) so you don't need to put out fenders - just a long line on the bow and stern to put around the cleats on the top of the wall to hold the boat close.  I caution other boaters to remember you are in a lock and the water level is going to change.  Don't tie off these lines!

The lock only went down about 1.5 feet and we were free again.  You never know how far or which direction the lock will go.  It depends on the north side tide and wind-blown water level on the south side.

Only a few miles later we pulled into the Top Rack marina for fuel.  They don't usually open until 8am and we were there a few minutes early.  But, the dockhand came right down and we took 73 gallons of diesel which was our usage from Osprey Marina in Myrtle Beach.  1/2 hour later we were heading north again on the ICW.  Only thing in our way now was the Gilmerton Bridge that had to open for us to pass under.  They are closed for road traffic from 6am to 8:30am and we arrived about 8:45.  The bridge-tender opened almost right away for us and I felt a little bad as the 4-lane highway was closed for several minutes just for our little sailboat.  

An hour later we passed Hospital Point which marks the beginning of the Atlantic Intracoastal Waterway between Norfolk and Miami.  Here is the channel marker for mile 0.  See ya ICW!

It was a pretty day as we motor-sailed passed the Norfolk Navy docks and out into Chesapeake Bay.  What a relief to be motoring in open water.  Now I can just sit back and read or just relax.

Winds continued to drop and a little while later we were motoring on a calm bay.  We've amost never seen the Chesapeake Bay like this.  Check out how calm the water is compared to only a couple hours ago in the last picture.

We had a couple choices for the next couple days and decided to take advantage of the nice weather and explore around Little Bay - just north of Deltaville and the Rappahannock River around Fleets Island.  This is a very protected bay we've stayed in a couple times before but never dropped the dinghy to explore.

As we were approaching the harbor, I had a call on our marina radio from Chris on S/V Plover.  These were friends and fellow OCC members who lived near Deltaville.  They were anchored in Little Bay and were just out for a couple night "shakedown" cruise on their boat which just went back in the water after some repairs.  We made plans to get together tomorrow morning on the beach.  

We anchored at 6:15pm and Laura made us a nice dinner which we ate in the cockpit.  Another pretty sunset with the boat anchored in a beautiful bay.

65nm today, 1111.5 total trip miles

Tuesday, May 18th to Wednesday May 19th - Day 34 & 35

We had planned on spending 2 nights here but the weather was so nice we decided to stay until Thursday.

Tuesday morning we dropped the dinghy and motored into the beach to meet Chris and Bill from Plover.  It was fun catching up with them and walking the beautiful beach.  You can walk all the way around this small island in a couple hours.

After leaving the beach we used the dinghy to explore west up into the Antiposion Creek (I wonder where that name came from...).  We explored for several miles up the creek and had a fun morning checking out some possible future storm anchorages for Second Wind.

In the afternoon we worked a few boat projects and relaxed.  

Wednesday after breakfast we decided to take the dingy into the beach for a walk.  We met several locals having a picnic on the island from their boats and walked around enjoying the wildlife.  In one section there were these tiny crabs in the sand about the size of your thumbnail.  They didn't seem too scared of us but we had to watch that we didn't step on them.

Yesterday we had seen this little shack / bar on the beach and thought it was really neat.  I found a name-plate inside and Laura held it up while I took this picture.  Now what did we do with the makings for Laura's Sunset Rum Punch....

After the beach walk we took the dinghy around and through Fleets Island.  At a couple places I had to tilt the motor up, get out and walk the dinghy through the shallows.  I didn't really pay attention to where we were going.  I figured worst-case we would just go back the same way we came.

I did use Aquamaps on my iPhone for charts but it didn't really show the depths very well around here.  At one point Laura and I had to duck way down to make it under this low road bridge.  See the low bridge in the picture over Laura's right shoulder?

At last we came out of the shallow water into what I figured was Chesapeake Bay just around from where we had anchored the big boat.  But, as I zoomed out on my iPhone chart, I could see that we were way on the other side of the island and facing Deltaville in front of us.  If it was windy or choppy, we would have a long, wet ride around Fleets Island back to the boat.

But, it was a beautiful day so I twisted the throttle, popped the dingy up on plane and zoomed the 7 miles back to the boat at 15 knots on a calm Chesapeake Bay.  Here is a screen-shot of the chart where we took our dinghy ride.  The red dotted line was our track through and around the island.  The little sailboat icon near the middle is where we were anchored for 3 nights.

It was another nice relaxing night at anchor.

Thursday, May 20th - Day 36 (Start of week 6)

Another warm, sunny day as we slept in a bit and relaxed before getting underway.  We pulled the anchor up just after 10am for the short, 15 mile sail to Reedville.  No problems as we motor-sailed up a calm Chesapeake Bay for a couple hours before turning east into the Great Wicomico River then north to Reedville.

We met our friends Walter and Mary through the Ocean Cruising Club (OCC).  They have a house on Cockrells Creek with a dock that can hold 2 cruising boats and make it available as a OCC Cruising Station.  They are so friendly and giving, they even won an award from OCC as Cruising Station of the Year.

Two years ago we stayed with them the first time on our way south and now they are on our "have to stop here" list.  The dock is so protected, we have no problems with the boat there in big storms.

Here we are pulling into their quiet little harbor.  Their house is the big white one with a tan roof.


After tying up I helped Walter turn the water on for the dock and clean out the lines.  I guess we were the first boat to stay with them this Spring.  

Mary was working / helping out at a thrift shop in town that supports the local animal shelter.  We had a nice reunion when she got home then they drove us to a friends house for a big BBQ.  Ray and Paula (the BBQ people) were friends of Walter and Mary's.  Mary was together with Paula when she mentioned we were coming later in the week.  That's how we got invited to a great party.

We drove a while to a pretty house on the Little Wicomico River.  Ray had made pulled pork BBQ earlier in the day.  All the friends and neighbors invited brought most of the fixings.  Laura supplied pastries and cookies for dessert.  Ray also had an outdoor pizza oven where he cooked pizzas for the next several hours.  It was fun being together in a large group again.  I think this was the first big party I attended in over a year because of Covid.  

It was a fun time and we got to know many of Walter and Mary's friends.  I took this picture of the group.

Ray is a collector of many things but one of his most prized possessions is a 1945 Army Truck.  I thought he did a great job on the restoration.  The 50 caliber machine gun is actually plastic but it looks pretty real.


After dinner we drove back to the house / boat, said good-night and had a great night's sleep in the quiet cove.

15nm today, 1126.5 total trip miles

Friday, May 21st - Day 37

We really didn't have a set plan for how long we were staying.  Walter and Mary kept telling us, "stay as long as you like" but we always get itchy to move after we've been settled down for a bit.  From here we needed two days to get to Annapolis - our next major port.  It looked like Sunday and Monday would work with the current weather forecast.

Laura took a load of laundry up to the house as I worked a few boat projects.  One project I completed was to re-program our solar panel controller for a slightly higher cutoff voltage.  I had been a little conservative when I programmed it for our new Lithium batteries a couple months ago and it was shutting off before the batteries were fully charged.  This isn't really a problem with Lithium batteries but a little higher cutoff point would help to stay on anchor longer without running the generator.  Anyway, I hooked the MorningStar MPPT controller up to our WiFi router and was able to re-program it with my computer fairly quickly.  After testing by turning off shore power it was working great.

At 5pm Walter and Mary drove us to one of our favorite stops last trip - the "Wine Down Friday" party at Good Luck Cellars.  It was another fun time with good wine and great friends.  Their friend Harry joined us at the table.  He's on the left.


Food at the winery was supplied by a local fish market.  I had fried oysters and oyster tacos.  Laura had the shrimp tacos.  All the food was a little expensive but cooked right in front of you and tasted great.

Saturday, May 22rd - Day 38

After breakfast Laura and I took a long walk around Reedville.  We needed a little exercise after all the parties!  The local ice cream shop had this huge chair out front.  Laura looked like a little kid in it.

I stopped over to the Reedville Fisherman's Museum where Walter volunteered a few mornings each week.  It was quite interesting!  Did you ever hear of Menhaden fish?  We never had before visiting Reedville.  Schools of Menhaden abound in the Chesapeake.  They are an oily fish so not really good for human cooking and eating but they are great for making fish oil and pet / animal feed.  They were so plentiful that at one time, Reedville boasted more millionaires than anywhere else in the U.S..  Check it out if you get a chance.  Here is a link to the Fisherman's Museum.

They also had a large train display in one of the buildings.  I was blown over by the huge train layout and how much work went into all the scenery.  Here's a picture of just one part.

Mary took Laura for grocery shopping while I washed and scrubbed the boat.  It had been quite a while since a good cleaning and I just finished when Laura came back with a full carload of food. We were both pretty tired after lugging groceries to the boat and putting everything away.

Walter and Mary had tickets for a concert so we were on our own for dinner.  I grilled pork chops while Laura made a big salad.  

This was the first of our very warm days with temps near 90.  We slept with the air-conditioning on.  I think we hit the sack early.

Sunday, May 23rd - Day 39

We decided to stay another night to spend a little more time with Walter and Mary.  They had a pretty busy social calendar but tonight was open so we planned a nice cocktail hour on the porch and dinner together.

After puttering around the boat in the morning, I walked up to the house to see if there were any odd jobs I could do for them.  They seemed happy that I asked and told me of a few things they needed like outdoor light-bulb replacements and leveling a hump in the driveway.

We met at 5pm on the porch for happy-hour.  Laura brought a cravat of her Raspberry Sangria (plus fixing if we wanted more...). I brought my guitar and played a few songs with Laura singing harmony.  Laura had purchased chicken parts yesterday which I grilled on the big outside BBQ at the house.  We ate in the house as it was another hot and humid day. 

After talking until after 9pm, we said our sad goodbyes and headed back to the boat.  I filled our water tank and put the hose away so I wouldn't have to do that in the morning before getting underway.  it was another warm night so we ran the air-conditioner to sleep better.

The forecast called for a front coming through tonight that would clock the winds north then east.  We planned on using the east winds for sailing to the Solomon's tomorrow.

Monday, May 24th - Day 40

I could feel the gusty winds blowing the boat around during the night but they didn't seem so bad this morning.  We were able to get the boat underway fairly easily as the east wind held her against the dock while we untied lines and power.

I planned on using the same "power off a spring line" technique that we used at Oriental but was hoping this piling was stronger that that one.  It worked out well and we were off the dock at 8:15am with light winds from the east.  But...  We were in a very protected harbor with hills and houses all around so I was still a little pessimistic about the Chesapeake.

As we turned east out of Reedville into the Chesapeake it was a wild ride.  The seas were 3-4 feet and very close as the boat powered directly into a 20 knot wind at 2-4 knots.  I knew it would only be 3-4 miles before we could turn and get the winds off the bow for sailing but it still wasn't fun.  We bashed into the waves for about an hour then we were able to turn north enough to roll out 1/2 of the mainsail to help.  We were still bashing into the waves but now we were doing 6 knots instead of 3.

An hour later we rounded Smith's Point Light, rolled out the jib and turned off the engine for the next 5 hours.  Seas were a little crazy as we sailed across the Potomac River which is normal because of cross-currents.  Everything calmed down an hour later and I think we averaged over 7 knots for the 5 hours of sailing.  As the day went on it became more cloudy and the temps dropped several degrees.  I went down and changed from shorts and t-shirt to sweat pants and 2 shirts.

The Navy maintains a large metal target several miles from shore in this part of the Chesapeake.  Today there were a couple small Navy boats warning all the sailboat away from the target because it was going to be used at 2pm.  Oh boy.  What were they going to shoot at it?  We were a little passed the target by 2pm and I heard a couple jets but never saw them shooting.  Bummer.

A few hours later we turned west at Cedar Point into the Solomon's.  This put is directly downwind so I jibbed the mainsail and sailed wing-on-wing for the next few miles.  It worked out pretty well.  Here is the jib out to port with the main out to starboard.  The wind had calmed to low teens by this point so you can see the waves were not bad at all.

We sailed all the way up to the turn into Solomon's before pulling them in and starting the engine.  The rain started just as we pulled in the sails.  After motoring a few miles into Back Creek, we anchored in front of Anglers Pub on a calm bay.  

43nm today, 1169.5 total trip miles

Plans are to leave here early tomorrow and sail to Annapolis.  Our friends Bob and Chris will meet us for dinner tomorrow and Chris might take Laura for her second Covid shot on Wednesday.  I'm not sure how long we are staying in Annapolis.  The weather is very stormy now with fronts coming through every couple days.  I don't see a weather window for sailing up the coast of NJ until maybe a week from now.  No worries.  We'll find things to do and friends to party with.

We might leave on Thursday or Friday and sail up to the Sassafras River.  One of our favorite stops there was the Georgetown Yacht Basin but we heard they are closed.  We might check out Sailing Associates which is just across the river from there for a night or two.

All is well on Second Wind.  Laura just finished making a big pot of chili for dinner.  Perfect for this cool afternoon!